How to say goodbye

Remembering our friend René Sollberger

In 2013 we moved into a beautiful loft in the heart of Boston, where Phil met our new neighbors as they were moving in. Pilar and her husband, René, quickly became dear friends, sharing holidays and dinners during our time in the Boston area and staying in touch through several moves, meetups in various cities, and plenty of emails and Facebook posts. 

René and Pilar in their loft, next door to us

René took this picture of a Thanksgiving together at our beach home in Plymouth, MA, with my high school bestie Patricia.

When we moved to France, René and Pilar were among our first house guests, where they fell in love with Montpellier and the south of France.

Enjoying cocktails at our favorite hangout, SmashBar (now closed, unfortunately)

We had only a few days together, but we packed in plenty of fun, walking our legs off, playing pétanque, and enjoying pleasant May weather. And food. We have shared so many wonderful meals together–including a memorable evening when René made authentic Swiss fondue for us, served on special plates that had been in his family for years.

Dinner in the garden of our first Montpellier apartment

René and Pilar were both journalists, and when we met in Boston René was hard at work on a book about Swiss diplomat Jakob Kellenberger. A man of many talents and interests, in addition to being a journalist and author, René also was a travel professional. It cracked me up that as a Swiss person, he led tours of the American Southwest–for Americans! You can learn more about René on his website. 

One of the delightful holiday cards René and Pilar sent each year–this one features their dog, Jet.

René and Pilar eventually left America for northwest Switzerland, where they bought and customized a gorgeous new apartment which would be their dream home. We planned to visit them as soon as they were fully settled. Tragically, on May 9, only six weeks after moving in, René succumbed to a massive cardiac event that ended his life at only 66 years of age. He died in his sleep, leaving a heartbroken widow and hundreds of bereaved family and friends, including Phil and me.

The beautiful invitation to the party to celebrate René’s life

Pilar is a remarkable woman: she was embedded with the military in Iraq, she is an accomplished pilot and flight instructor, professional speaker, journalist, world traveler, and much more. And astonishingly, in the depths of grief, she created a party to celebrate René’s life. Not a funeral, which he would have hated, but a true celebration, at a beautiful, rustic horse trekking ranch in the Jura mountains of Switzerland–for 60 people! 

Because we had never visited Switzerland (and because we are, after all, Roamers), Phil and I decided to make a short vacation of our trip. We drove to Annecy, which is a gorgeous alpine town nestled beside a lake. We spent two nights there, enjoying the scenery, the fresh air (so nice after the heat and humidity at home), and the delicious cuisine.

A lake and chateau view during our drive around Lake Annecy

Our friends Dave and Sue had recently visited Annecy and highly recommended “the best, most authentic Mexican food we’ve found in France” at La Taqueria by Los Primos. Of course we had to go, and it did not disappoint. One of the things we most miss from our U.S. life is Mexican food, so this was truly a treat.

Happy Mexican food Phil

Annecy has been described as the Venice of France, with good reason. We loved walking along the canals, people-watching, and finding special culinary treats from the area.

I took this photo while strolling along the canal.

On our second evening in Annecy we had dinner at the Paul Bocuse restaurant honoring his mother, who was a native of Annecy. We had dined at the original Michelin-starred Bocuse in Lyon and were eager to try Brasserie Irma. We dined on the spacious terrace, and I may or may not have slipped a bit of my fish to the  resident cat.

Brasserie Irma

We left very early the next morning to get to Zurich in time for a lovely lunch at the home of my high school friend and Wild Woman Susan and her Swiss husband Kurt. Our visit to their beautiful apartment was short but very sweet, and they made a fabulous luncheon feast. We hope to return for a longer visit.

And then it was time to drive to the Miramont Horse Trekking Hostel, the site of René’s celebration. Pilar, who lives in the next town, had partnered with David, a former commercial pilot and now the Miramont proprietor, to plan a uniquely beautiful event. We had a tearful reunion with Pilar, who got us into our charming room, before joining the al fresco apéro, where we met guests from all over Europe. We re-met René’s cousins, with whom we’d enjoyed lunch in Austin (where René and Pilar had to translate the entire conversation because his cousins had no English and we had no useable French or German), and all four of us were delighted to be able this time to have some rudimentary French conversations.

After the lovely apéro, which featured some of the best appetizers I’ve had at an event, everyone headed upstairs to the event room. Pilar welcomed everyone in German, the predominant language of the group, and she had thoughtfully printed out an English translation of her comments for the non-German speakers. Pilar was eloquent and graceful a she welcomed her guests, accompanied by slides of René over the years, and spoke of her love. No dry eyes. Then it was time for the delicious buffet dinner, followed by a speech by René’s childhood friend. 

When the time came for Pilar to give her speech, complete with slides of the couple’s wedding, travels, and life together, we were amazed by her composure. Yes, there were tears, but she made it through, ending with “I will always be your Sweetie.” Remembering her speech brings tears but also joy.

Pilar sharing her memories of René

And then she directed us to open the gifts on the tables, one for each person or couple. Pilar had framed a photo of each of us with René, to keep as a remembrance. Ours was taken in our garden in Montpellier during their 2022 visit. At this point there was not a dry eye in the house, but it was time for the band to play. We all danced to wonderful music, with René’s cousin the lead singer. 

Celebration of Life

(Thanks to Wendy Lubetkin for the video!)

It was a bittersweet, wonderful evening that we will always remember. We miss René and are grateful to have the memories of this very special friend.

The next day, at our new friend Wendy’s recommendation, we ventured into the charming medieval town of Estavayer-le-Lac, where frog images abound. Our destination was bizarre: a museum featuring taxidermy frogs in various settings. Creepy, but very interesting!

Frog fète

That evening we, along with another couple, were guests for dinner at Pilar’s beautiful apartment. It was a lovely evening, with wonderful food and more stories of René. We are hoping that Pilar and her dog Jet will visit us in Montpellier soon, but for now it was time to say goodbye.

The next morning we drove to Lausanne for a quick lunch with friends Leslie and Arnaud, who were fresh off a redeye flight and train ride; we were honored that they delayed a much-needed rest to lunch with us. Leslie has a wonderful website and blog that I highly recommend. 

Then it was off to Geneva for our last night in Switzerland. We stayed at a Marriott which turned out to have an excellent restaurant and bar.

My dessert: beautiful AND delicious!

And the next day we returned home. It was a bittersweet, wonderful trip, and we were honored to be part of the party for René. And we will treasure his photo, which rests on my desk next to the coaster René and Pilar gave us several years ago.

We will never forget our friend René.

You say tomato, i say tomate

A Tomato Festival in Clapiers

Aaand, it’s September! Fall weather hasn’t yet arrived here, although the mornings are often pleasant enough to sip coffee on the terrace. On Sunday, we were planning to go to the farmers’ market in our neighborhood, but then I saw a Facebook post about something far more interesting: a tomato festival in nearby Clapiers! When we lived in Boston, we were regular attendees at the annual tomato festival, where visitors could sample hundreds of varieties, learn how to make mozzarella, and participate in a food foraging hike (all of which we loved!). So when we realized Clapiers was just a 20-minute drive from home, we hopped in the car.

The fates were with us, as we found a parking spot near the crowded park. As we entered the festival, we were greeted by a men’s chorus singing lustily, if not entirely together, songs from the Occitane, the region of France where we live. This group is hilarious and fun; if you want to translate, you can read about them here. 

The festival was packed with food stands, activity centers, and information booths touting everything from recycling to growing herbs. After running into friends (!) and chatting a bit, we decided to follow their example and do our shopping first, as the festival featured a bountiful famers’ market.

One of several cheese vendors

But when we came upon the huge booth display of tomatologist Eric Pédebas, which featured over 250 varieties of tomatoes, we had to stop for a while. We chatted with M Pédebas about the varieties–at least as much as I could manage in my toddler-level French–and bought as much as we thought we could use, before buying a tasting plate to share.

Our tasting plate, complete with gazpacho, several varieties of tomatoes, olive oil, and salt: delicious!

I was tempted to eat all these tomatoes before Phil got back from buying a potato pancake topped with sautéed onions and cheese to share. My favorite was the yellow tomato, the name of which I’ve forgotten. But everything was delicious, including the gallette de pommes de terre. Here is a recipe that’s similar to what we ate.

After eating, we returned to the tomato display for a while, just to see all the different varieties. Seeds were on sale, but since our terrace faces north, I haven’t had good luck growing tomatoes, so we settled for as many tomatoes as we could use up in a few days.

Gorgeous tomato display

We finished our shopping and dropped it at the car before continuing our wander through the festival. We saw goats, dogs for adoption, artwork, crafts, and so. much. food. We were tempted by everything, but in the end we simply bought a beautiful tourtière (savory hand pie) to take home. Filled with lardons, onions, two kinds of cheese, and herbs, it made a wonderful late lunch with a crisp white wine. Followed by a nap.

Al fresco munching at the festival

We wandered back to the car, stopping once more to listen to the chorus, and decided to drive aimlessly through the town and surrounding countryside before finding our way home (without using GPS!!!). With the basil we bought, I made pesto to keep in the freezer for a taste of summer in winter. The olive oil is delicious, and we’ll use the apricot nectar for cocktails. We bought several fabulous confits–sun-dried tomato and morels!–along with a beautiful loaf of crusty bread and a golden pattypan squash. And the tomatoes? Well, they will be gone tomorrow.

Our haul from the market

Foggy london town? Nope.

Hot, crowded, expensive, and lots of fun.

August. Not my favorite month. Crowds, heat, and administrative tasks marked the beginning of the month for us. I had lots of tasks, mostly un-fun ones, to accomplish: starting the renewal of our residence permits (and making more than my share of mistakes!), trying (so far unsuccessfully) to get someone to repair/replace our almost-new wine fridge, trying (again, so far unsuccessfully) to get the recall issue on our car fixed, getting an injection and physical therapy for my knee, etc. See? Our life in France is wonderful, but it’s still real life.

An unrelated photo of flowers in the Cotswolds

By the first weekend of August, I was ready for some fun, so I handed Phil a tourist map and asked him to choose a day trip. It was too late for his first choice (a cave with prehistoric paintings), so off we went to Agde, a lovely little town about an hour away. After a stroll and a quick sandwich near the train station, we headed to our destination, the Chateau Laurens. Built as a party palace rather than a home, and now owned by the city, this chateau is an amazing example of Belle Epoch architecture, reflecting the idiosyncrasies of Emmanuel Laurens, a world traveler who used his massive inheritance to create this strange and beautiful mansion.

Just one of the Chateau Laurens rooms; check the link for much better photos!

But August’s main event was our week-long trip to London. We had a British Airways credit from a cancelled trip, which was fortunate, since London is the most expensive city we’ve visited! I had splurged (or at least it seemed like a splurge) on a room at the Royal Horseguards Hotel in Westminster, a wonderful location for a lovely old hotel with lots of art. Our room was nice–until, several days into our stay, sewage backed up into the bathtub. We were moved to another room with a view of the Thames but a leaky shower. That was quickly repaired, but the problems caused our hotel stay to seem not quite so special.

Afternoon tea at our hotel upon arrival

We arrived in London, checked into the hotel, and proceeded to: enjoy afternoon tea with a glass of Champagne; visit the National Gallery; walk to the Savoy Hotel for cocktails; and enjoy (well, Phil enjoyed his; me not so much) our first pub meal.

Klimt portrait at the National Gallery

By the way, one of our favorite things to do in large cities is have a cocktail at places we could never afford to stay or shop at. On this trip we lifted a glass at the Savoy, Raffles at the OWO, the Baccarat Bar at Harrod’s, and the Ritz. Try it!

Near our hotel

The next morning after coffee, we boarded a double decker hop-on-hop-off tour bus. The recorded patter was silly, but we got a good overview of the city, which we hadn’t really visited in over 20 years. We hopped off near the Tower of London to board a boat for a cruise back up the Thames. Soon I heard a familiar refrain from Phil: “Let’s go have a cocktail!” We headed to Raffles at the OWO, just across from our hotel, where we enjoyed a cocktail, great atmosphere, and delightful conversation with our server.

Inspiring resale shop spied on one of our many walks

Then it was time for dinner. We couldn’t visit London without having Indian food, so I searched online and found Maharaja of India, a lovely but hot and crowded restaurant where we enjoyed our first Indian restaurant meal since moving to France.

I marveled at the beautiful napkin rings at the restaurant.

We were excited about the next day, when at our daughter Amelia’s recommendation we had booked a walking gourmet tour of the Camden Town markets.

Pick up your order here! Camden Market

Our guide, Tom King, was fun and knowledgeable, and the other guests were good company. We sampled birria tacos, Yorkshire burritos, an apple crumble to die for, and artisinal gin, among other things. The tour was excellent, highly recommended!

Happy food tour guests

Camden Town owners paint their row houses in pastels; apparently it increases their value!

Camden Town has a well-earned reputation for its music scene, and we were shown many venues where now-world-famous performers got their start. Chief among them was Amy Winehouse. There is a lot of street art dedicated to her, and while tagging is also common, Tom told us the local rule: “You don’t tag Amy!!!”

My favorite Amy Winehouse street art

We walked off our feast, visiting the Victoria and Albert Museum, which has among its many wonders an astonishing, huge ceramics collection. Then we strolled down the street to Harrod’s, where we fought the crowds to buy a few food gifts. Exhausted, hot, tired, and sick of crowds, we stumbled upon the Baccarat Bar, in Harrods’ basement. A quiet, soothing oasis, this bar serves each beverage in a stunning Baccarat crystal glass. We toasted our success in finding a wonderful bar while judging the two couples at the next table, where one woman was bragging about “only paying 4500 pounds for TWO purses and a pair of shoes!” 

A gorgeous Cassigneul painting at the Stern Pissaro Gallery in St. James’s

After our cocktail, en route to the Tube, we stumbled upon a lovely Italian restaurant where we dined alfresco. Our two entrees and four glasses of wine set us back almost $200, although Giovanni’s is billed as modestly priced.

Big breakfasts are not really a thing in France, so we had to make sure we enjoyed them in London. We had a delicious breakfast at The Breakfast Club, where I indulged in the chicken & waffles–with bacon!!! Later in the week, Phil had a traditional full English breakfast, complete with beans. 

Phil’s full English

We were super hot and tired, so we had a bit of a rest in the hotel before heading to the theatre to see “Kathy & Stella Solve a Murder,” the most riotous, happy, moving, delightful musical I’ve ever seen. Here’s a link to the trailer. Seriously, if you ever get a chance to see it, don’t miss it!

It’s a small theatre, so there’s not a bad seat in the house–but our seats were great!

After laughing ourselves silly (and shedding a tiny tear), we headed out to the Ritz for a cocktail. The doorman told Phil he might not be admitted wearing trainers, but we were lucky and scored seats at the bar, where we could watch the amazing bartenders create cocktails that were works of art (They even brand their giant ice cubes with the logo!). At our bartender’s recommendation, we then enjoyed a fabulous tasting menu dinner (with wine pairings, of course) at the Sexy Fish, a beautiful restaurant where even the staff uniforms are gorgeous.

We averaged 15-20,000 steps each day of our London trip, so the next morning we were eager to have a break: a driving tour to Oxford and the Cotswolds. This full-day tour for 16 guests (in an air-conditioned mini-bus!) involved a lot of driving, with lovely scenery. We visited two Cotswold villages, both quaint and beautiful, but also hot and full of tourists. 

Beautiful Cotswolds village home

Our tour guide told us that residents had complained about non-English speaking tourists who would walk into their homes and sit down, thinking they were in a restaurant, not someone’s private home!

Then we headed back toward Oxford, also crowded and hot, but fascinating. We shared a burger at Turf Tavern, which dates from 1381 and was a favorite of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, among many other stars.

Radcliffe Square in Oxford

We wandered the streets, marveling at the architecture and thinking about our three favorite British detective series, “Inspector Morse,” “Lewis,” and “Endeavor.” We didn’t witness any murders but were not disappointed by Oxford. When we returned to Victoria Station, we wandered through Belgravia before ducking into Ganymede, a pretty little restaurant serving Sunday roast, which is a must-do in London. We both opted for the rolled & stuffed pork belly, which seemed like a good idea at the time but was really, really rich.

The next day, our last full day in London, we had tickets to tour Westminster Abbey. I deliberately chose a date and time with lots of availability, thinking it wouldn’t be as crowded as the day we tried unsuccessfully to buy tickets at the gate. I was wrong. The crowds were horrible–and it was still super hot! I got my toe stepped on, my glasses bumped by an elbow, and my head tapped by someone’s phone. We made our way quickly through and hope to return sometime–off-season!

I couldn’t even get a photo of Chaucher’s tomb without some random guy’s hand photobombing it!

After cooling off back in the room, we showered and got ready for the big event: Cabaret! I had splurged on a table in the second row, with a “gourmet” dinner and a bottle of Champagne included. Standing in line to enter the Kit Kat Club (which was just around the corner from our hotel), we heard someone call out to us. It was Tom, our Camden tour guide! I guess it’s a small world, even in London.

The Emcee

The immersive experience was astonishing (although, again, super crowded). Our table had a phone on it, just like we see in old movies, Imagine our surprise when it rang! One of the dancers called us to chat before the show began. And the show was wonderful (although the gourmet dinner turned out to be a bento box). The whole experience was poignant, memorable, and very entertaining.

The next day, after checking out of the hotel, we headed to the Parlour, at the Great Scotland Yard Hotel just around the corner from our hotel. I’d been curious about their afternoon tea, and it turned out to be a highlight of the trip. We opted for the unlimited Champage tea, and because it was so hot, we asked for our tea to be served iced. It was wonderful! Three courses, all delicious, and bottomless Veuve Cliquot, our favorite Champagne.

As we left The Parlour, we spotted this rhinoceros chair, so I made Phil pose in it.

And then we headed to the Courtyard at Gatwick for a quick sleep before our 7am flight home. It was a wonderful trip that we won’t forget. The only down side, other than heat and crowds, was that we didn’t get to see our friends Jane and Bernie in Chichester because they both got Covid. They’re fine now, back home in the U.S.

We are so fortunate to be able to travel, and while this trip was a budget buster, it was worth it! Well, maybe not the hotel/bathtub sewage. Now we’re wrapping up August, back in our French lessons, and looking forward to our road trip to Switzerland next month. Stay tuned!

One last painting, a Renoir at the National Gallery

no lie, july was busy!

So. Much. Fun.

July started out with a bang, as our dear friends Danny & Lynn arrived for a visit. They were our first friends in Wimberley, where Danny is an amazing artist and Lynn is a skilled golfer. They stayed at the apartment hotel just across the street from us, which gave them a bit of room and privacy. For their first evening, I made dinner: peach caprese salad, veal piccata with polenta, and a clafoutis for dessert. 

Lynn & Danny in front of the Fountain of the Three Graces, at la Place de la Comédie

The next morning after coffee and pastries, we visited our neighborhood farmers’ market before heading to the brocante (weekly flea market). Alas, no brocante that day–but we happened to meet a lovely English couple who spend weeks at a time in their Montpellier apartment near the train station. Phil and I ended up meeting them for cocktails the evening before they returned home to northern England, and we look forward to seeing Eileen and Graeme on their next visit.

Sunday farmers’ market

We strolled through the Jardin des Plantes, the oldest botanical garden in France, which is still used for research, before enjoying lunch at Broc Cafe, one of our favorite Sunday destinations. Phil and I had dance performance tickets that evening, so Lynn and Danny explored on their own. Ice cream may or may not have been involved.

Ice cream here is so pretty!

One morning when Phil and I didn’t have French lessons, we all set out for Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert, a medieval village known for its Unesco World Heritage Site, le Pont Diable, or Devil’s Bridge. You can read about it and its legend in the link. On route, we spied a sign: “Site Prehistorique.” Of course, we had to investigate. After following a progressively rougher and skinnier road, we hiked up to the site, which was unfortunately closed, so all we could do was walk the perimeter. Next time!

This village existed around 2700 years ago!

As we drove out, we spotted a small sign advertising ceramics. Another detour! This path led to a compound with marvelous, bigger-than-lifesized sculptures of fanciful animals. After calling “Allo?”several times, I was rewarded when a tiny woman came out. “On cherche la ceramiciste,” I said. “C’est moi,” Martine replied, and she led us to the studio she shares with husband Dom.  They do not speak English, so I translated (badly) as Danny purchased a beautiful bowl (They don’t take credit cards, so without cash Phil and I were unable to buy anything). We admired some pieces in the “damaged” section, and Martine and Dom let each couple choose one as a gift. 

Our beautiful “mistake,” a gift from Martine and Dom

We finally made it to Saint Guihelm, after a LONG detour for road work, and after squeezing the car through the tiniest street I’ve seen, we enjoyed an al fresco lunch with several cats. Then, after visiting the abbey, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and of course the famous bridge, where a couple of young men terrified us by climbing up the gorge, we headed home.

The cloister at the abbey, next to the museum explaining its history

Gorge climbers. Lynn and I were terrified!

We were eager for Danny and Lynn to meet some of our Montpellier friends, so we invited two other couples to join us for dinner chez Shroyer. The menu: vichysoisse, morel chicken with pasta, and peach cobbler (the recipe from my Wild Woman Linda Goldenstern’s mom, Irma!). We enjoyed lemon martinis and nibbles on the terrace, followed by dinner inside. I was too busy having fun to take any photos!

The next day was July 4, a special day for us because it’s our daughter’s birthday (also our niece’s!). It was made even more special by the Chicago hot dog party hosted by our friends Dave and Sue! Again, I was having too much fun to remember to take photos.

Our friends left with fun memories, and we enjoyed the last dance performance of the Montpellier dance festival, a wonderful movie night with friends Jana and Martin, and a couple of fun times with other friends, before the big event: Quatorze Juillet, AKA Bastille Day! Our friends Lloyd and Bob had invited us to a party, and their terrace was just yards from the fireworks launch site. The fireworks felt as if they were coming right at our heads!

No photo could do justice to this amazing sight!

Then it was time to prepare for my big event: a trip to Arkansas for the wedding of Sydney and Sean. Sydney’s mom is my bestie Beth, and I’ve known Syd since she was born, so this was a very special trip. I had two close connections, the one in Atlanta caused by a bit of a backup in baggage claim.

There were hundreds of bags stuck on the belt, stopping it and making everyone angry!

Three flights later, I arrived in Tulsa at midnight and was chauffeured by Beth’s DIL Robby and granddaughter Jocelyn. The next morning we were all busy organizing, packing, and chasing Beth’s granddaughters Cora and Maeve.

Flower girls, Maeve and Cora

We arrived in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, and checked into the Airbnb Beth had booked. It was a carriage house, and we slept in horse stalls. No, really!

I had the middle stall.

Then we got to work. We made all the flower arrangements and boutonnières, assembled the umbrellas (intended for sun, but used for a sprinkling of rain during the ceremony), ran errands, and chased granddaughters. The wedding was held at the Crescent Hotel (which is haunted), a beautiful mountain retreat in the charming village.

Junior bridesmaid Jossy with a wedding umbrella

Being a long-time family friend, as well as a former wedding consultant, I was drafted to be the wedding coordinator. The rehearsal went well, and after the rehearsal dinner Beth and I returned to our carriage house, where the youngsters had spent the evening with pizza and young adult supervision. 

The carriage house was a bit of a mess after all the kids left!

The day of the wedding was too busy for me to take photos, but it was lovely. Gorgeous bride, fabulous family, lovely ceremony, and a bit of rain to sweeten the day. One special moment for me: when I pinned a boutonnière on Bronce, the bride’s brother, he reminded me that I’d done the same when he married Robby 13 years ago.

Bronce and the bride, with beautiful Beth in the background

Sean and Syd, the happy couple

The reception was wonderful, and I got to catch up with friends-who-are-family, watch the festivities, munch delicious food (taco bar! wedding cake!), dance a little, and finally SIT!

Reception joy

But wait, there’s more! After the reception, as we were winding down at the carriage house, Syd, who is a director and producer, got a text message. She had just won not one, but TWO EMMYS!!! She was awarded for two documentaries, “The Ancient Game of Stickball” and “Chickasaw Warriors.” 

This was taken after the Emmys arrived.

The next morning after breakfast, I borrowed Syd’s car to make a quick visit to my brother and sister-in-law, who live nearby. It was too short but so great to see them both! 

Lea, Sandy, and Larry

We had two more nights in Tulsa, and on the last evening, after everyone had left, Beth and I enjoyed a quiet dinner (pasta with tomatoes from Lea’s garden and basil from Beth’s), reflecting on the wedding, but also on our 53-year friendship. I’m so very luck to have this treasure of a friend.

And then it was time to come home. Phil and I missed each other (although our friends kept him entertained and fed during my absence), and it was lovely to be home and back in our routine. The last few days have been blessedly quiet (watching the amazing Jeux Olympiques opening ceremony, bingeing the “Alice Nevers” detective series, cooking, and sleeping!), and I am very happy to be home.

A wonderful wedding. A wonderful couple.

Sumer is icumen in

A Busy Month of June

On June 6 (yes, we got married on D-Day) we celebrated 43 years of marriage. Our celebrations consisted of two things: first, a wonderful dinner at Blackey’s, a Montpellier restaurant recommended by our French teacher, Elodie. We enjoyed a tasting menu (with wine pairings, of course) and spent the evening reminiscing about each year of our marriage. It was a very long dinner!

Our faded wedding photo. We’ve faded a bit since then, too!

The other part of our celebration was coffee related. The Breville espresso machine that we bought on our first day in Montpellier had to be replaced in the first year, and this year the replacement gave up the ghost. After much debate, and especially after a recommendation from Nicholas, who serves us coffee at Cafe de la Mer, we decided to blow the budget on a SMEG. I don’t want to say it’s been life-changing, because that would be excessive hyperbole (see what I did there?), but we are in coffee heaven.

Our anniversary gift

The next weekend we made a day trip to Bouzigues (also Elodie-recommended), which is known for its oyster farms. We strolled the beach, watched kids playing, and enjoyed a lovely terrace lunch.

Bouzigues oyster farming

Phil hates oysters, and I can’t say I love them, but when in Bouzigues. . . I ordered gratinéed oysters (huitres en francais), which were very rich but good. And we each had an entire fish (yes, we had to fillet them on the plate) for our main course.

I had already eaten one oyster before I remembered to take this photo.

We love taking back roads, and on the way home from Bouzigues we spotted some interesting buildings. We stopped for a stroll and discovered Lavérune, a truly charming village near Montpellier.

Lavérune church. We wonder who maintains all the gorgeous flowers there.

We wandered through tiny, twisting streets and marveled at the quaint buildings–all very old.

Interesting décor on this home

But the main feature of Lavérune is the Chateau des Eveques, the 17th century home of the Montpellier bishops. Today it hosts events, houses an art museum, and features a game room that on our visit was filled with chess players. We especially loved the massive chateau park, which boasts the tallest plane trees we’ve ever seen.

Gorgeous park at Chateau des Eveques

The next weekend we attended the annual Marché des Potiers, or pottery market, in Marseillan, a small town about an hour southwest of Montpellier. We strolled around the pier, which was crowded with interesting restaurants, before landing on Brasserie le Marius, where we enjoyed a leisurely three-course lunch. We chatted over lunch with the gentleman at the next table, a native of Marseillan, who was interested in us because we are Americans and was very kind about my lousy French.

The Marseillan quai

After lunch we took a quick reconnaissance stroll through the pottery market before making our way to la Maison Noilly Prat for a tour and tasting. Phil’s favorite cocktail is the Vesper martini (the James Bond one), so checking out this prestigious vermouth maker was essential.

The Noilly Prat tour

The tour was in French, so we didn’t understand a lot of it, but we still loved seeing where and how this fortified wine is made. We got to taste three versions of the work-in-progress, to help us understand the impacts of aging and refinement, outside among the huge barrels. And the completed-product tasting was quite interesting: four types, ranging through extra dry (my favorite), to dry (the most common), to rouge (the favorite of our friend Sheri), to amber (think of cough medicine).

The lovely courtyard garden at la Maison Noilly Prat

There was a bar, of course, but we had to leave to complete our primary mission: exploring the pottery market. It was wonderful, with such variety and so many unique works of art. One large vessel kept calling to me, and over the course of an hour I succumbed. We now own a beautiful piece (alas, I’ve lost the card so can’t credit the artist) that will always evoke happy memories.

A beautiful work of art for our home

That sounds like a busy month, right? But it was all just a runup to the main event: a week in Stockholm visiting our kids! We were so excited, since it’s been almost a year since we’ve seen them. After a long travel day with two flight delays, we finally arrived at our adorable Airbnb, just a ten-minute walk from the kids’ apartment. They met us there and made a delicious late dinner as we caught up. The next morning I enjoyed breakfast on the balcony overlooking the garden before Phil woke up.

Petit dejeuner

We spent the day walking, doing a few errands, and chatting before it was time to head into the city for a special dinner with dear friends Ann-Lii and Fredrick, who had recently returned to Stockholm after living in Montpellier for six years. We miss them, but we’ll try to see them each time we’re in Stockholm.

Delicious food with great friends and family!

After dinner we headed to a hi-rise bar for a nightcap. It was about 11pm and still light! We had a wonderful time, and we hope to see these speical friends again soon.

Close-to-midnight sunset, viewed from the bar

Our timing for this trip was based on Midsommar, the Swedish summer solstice holiday, and the favorite holiday of our son-in-law, Nic. The four of us had such fun preparing the food–two types of deviled eggs, two types of herring, Nic’s homemade bread, crudités with dip, cheese and egg pie, roasted potatoes, potato and fish gratin, and much more. Amelia made flower crowns for everyone, and we were well supplied with schnapps (or in Sweden, snaps).

Phil in his flower crown

Our celebration was held outside the kids’ apartment, on a grassy area with picnic tables and grills. Another group next to us supplied a Maypole, and we shared our snapps with them. I had brought our pétanque set in my checked bag, so we had a hearty tournament, which Nic won by a hair.

Nic: the winner in Midsommar fashion as well as pétanque

Nic’s friend Douglas joined our celebration and made it even more fun–but he had to leave early for his OTHER Midsommar party! Aside from eating delicious food and playing games, the main activity of Midsommar is singing special songs as one drinks snaps. And so we did.

One of many special mommy-daughter moments

The day was perfect in every way. Naps were taken. Many laughs were had. Delicious food was consumed. And we all may or may not have slightly overdone the snaps.

Beautiful Amelia on a beautiful day

We took it easy on the rest of our visit, just relaxing and enjoying being together. We headed into the city once more, the day after Midsommar, for a delicious brunch (real bacon! Eggs Benedict with avocado!) at the Greasy Spoon Cafe. We played games (Hues and Cues, really fun!), Amelia and I worked a jigsaw puzzle, we cooked together, and thoroughly enjoyed each other’s company. On our last evening, Nic and Amelia, who make their own kimchee, served us a most delicious vegetarian bibimbap.

Delicious bibimbap: rice, carrots, homemade kimchee, fried egg, sautéed mushrooms, and two kinds of sesame seeds

The next morning the kids stopped by to say farewell (and to pick up their espresso machine, which they generously loaned us), and we were off to another long travel day (yes, more delays, but this time we enjoyed the Air France lounge at CDG). We arrived home late that night, and the next morning we were treated to a delicous brunch by our friends Gwen and Tom. 

Beautiful brunch table at Gwen and Tom’s house

And, except for the fact that our dear Texas friends Danny and Lynn are arriving this afternoon for a visit, that concludes our busy month of June. We are enjoying life and making memories at an astonishing pace, and we’re grateful. Happy summer to all!

Summer sunflower décor at our neighborhood shopping mall

April: Eclipse, dear friends, and more

The Roamers visit their granddaughter

Wow! What happened to April?! It’s almost over, and yet I’m pretty sure it just began. This month has been calmer than March, but we seem to have crowded a lot of fun into it. Best of all, we got to love on our granddaughter, Cora!

We set off by train for Paris on April 2. Our plan was to spend a leisurely evening in Paris before catching our flight to Dallas the next morning. I had reserved a Marriott property at the airport.

Guest of the day!

After checking in, we headed into Paris. Our umbrellas stayed in our suitcases, unfortunately, so we had to buy new ones at the train station because it was Paris in April, which means rain. Undaunted, we walked straight to our dinner spot, à la Biche au Bois (you might remember it from February, when my friend Margi and I dined there). I ordered (again!) les oeufs mayonnaise, which were just as delicious as I remembered, and which made me forget the rest of my meal.

Oeufs mayonnaise

It took a long time and two trains to get back to the hotel, and we fell into bed exhausted but excited for the next chapter of our adventure: flying American Airlines for the first time since 2014!. I had divorced AA in favor of Delta (at the time I had 2.4 million miles on AA!) after encountering an unsympathetic agent when my mother died, but after Delta made elite status much more difficult to achieve, and after our friend Dave, a retired AA flight attendant, encouraged us to try it again, we made the leap. And we were not disappointed; service has improved in the past ten years! We arrived in Dallas, picked up our rental car from Turo, and headed to Joni and Scott’s house, our home for the next two nights. 

After a shower and a glass of wine, we summoned an Uber to downtown Dallas for dinner at Billy Can Can, a fondly remembered spot from our roaming days. We had planned to start with martinis at the Adolphus Hotel bar, the French Room, but time was short and we decided to skip it in favor of an early dinner.

Billy Can Can pork chop: highly recommended!

The next day we enjoyed Joni’s fabulous breakfast spread and lazed around until it was time to meet up with friends. We had told our close friend group we’d be at J Theodore from 4-7 to catch up with whoever could make it–and we were thrilled to welcome many of them.

Lovely girlfriends from way back: Edie, Sandy, Cara, Cheri, and Joni

We didn’t get everyone into the photos, but we had such a wonderful time. We’ve known most of these folks for more than 30 years!

Cara, Sandy, and Joni: such wonderful friends!

One of the best things about our visit was that the kids–and grandkids!–of our friends wanted to see us. Lindsey, Clayton, and their daughter Alyssa joined us at J Theodore. And Nancy and Tom, parents of our son-in-law Nic, have become dear friends we see whenever possible.

Nancy, Tom, Clayton, Lindsey, and Alyssa

And after we left J Theodore, Joni’s daughter Jamie came over to see us. Jamie’s children, Landon and Ava, also got rides over. We heard that Landon said, “I have to see them! They came all the way from France!” It was a magical evening by the pool under the stars, but the next morning it was time to head out. We took the scenic route from Dallas to Dripping Springs, with a stop for lunch at Mama’s Home Cooking in Burnet, Texas, where we met up with dear friends Carol and Richard. I wish I’d taken a photo of us, but the meal pic will have to suffice.

Heart attack on a plate?

We finally arrived in Dripping Springs, just in time to help celebrate our son Grayson’s birthday. Cora was a bit shy the first couple of days of our visit, but she warmed up and we had the most delightful time with her! We don’t post photos of her online, so you’ll just have to imagine the most adorable 2 1/2-year-old who ever was. 

We had a couple of appointments aside from spending time with our kids–met with our lawyer to update our wills, had a fabulous lunch with friends Lynn, Danny, and their adult kids Kay and Mike, and I had a fun catch-up lunch with bestie Patricia. And the highlight, the reason we chose these dates for our trip, was the total eclipse of the sun! Cora, a toddler fashion icon, wore a dress decorated with planets for the occasion.

It was cloudy, but we saw it!!!

Before we knew it, it was time to go home. We said goodbye to Cora and her parents (hoping to see them in the fall), headed back to DFW, and hopped the plane to Paris. We had a couple of hours at CDG Airport before catching our train to Montpellier, so we ducked into the Sheraton Hotel bar for a badly-needed coffee. I ordered a café frappé, but the waiter brought me an espresso. I decided it didn’t really matter–after all, caffeine is caffeine–and took a sip. Suddently the waiter reappeared, took my espresso, and gave me the frappé I’d ordered; and then he served my espresso to the woman AT THE NEXT TABLE!!! She drank it down and left before I could decide what to say! Shocking but hilarious.

We were, as always, happy to be back home. We got back into our routine (by which I mean French lessons), hosted a super fun apéro dinatoire (heavy hors d’oeurves), I hosted my women’s circle, and we enjoyed the spoils of Dave and Sue’s trip to Italy: meats, lots of cheeses, breads, and for dessert, vanilla gelato topped with 25-year-old balsamic!

Sunset view from Dave and Sue’s beautiful apartment

Friends Janene and Peter were here for a few days, and we got to meet up with them for coffee, along with friends Anne and John. And our friend David, who visits Montpellier annually to brush up on his French (we met in a French class), shared his latest Montpellier street music video, which you can watch here. Tomorrow we’ll be having lunch with David and a new friend.

I’ll leave you with one last photo, taken yesterday as we walked to have coffee with Janene and Peter. This one-man-band on wheels was delighting tourists and locals alike, and his vehicle blew bubbles! We’re so grateful to live here, where there is something delightful at every turn.

One-man-band, with bubbles!

March: in like a whirlwind

The Roamers have a very busy month

This morning, on the last day of March, I am preparing blanquette de veau for a small Easter dinner with friends. But first, I looked over the calendar to find out why I”m feeling a little worn out–and it’s easy to understand! March has been an unusually busy month. Plus, it’s spring! Allergies! Extreme weather changes! And Ophelia, the orchid my friend Gwen gave me over two years ago (friend Sue named her while plant sitting last year), is in full bloom.

Ophelia is thriving

First up in this busy month was THE FIESTA. Our friends Dave and Sue used to host an annual pre-spring fiesta when they lived in Chicago, and now they’re continuing the tradition here. In January they set the date. “It’ll be on the fourth,” Dave said. So on February 4 we showed up–only to find that we were a month early!!! I often think the funniest stories are about mistakes (especially mine), and this was no exception.

Dave, a professionally trained cook, allowed me, along with friends Anne and John, to help with the food preparation, which was so much fun. We spent the day chopping, cooking, and laughing. And the party was perfect! Thirty-five guests of all nationalities and backgrounds crowded into Dave and Sue’s beautiful apartment for a food-and-fun-filled evening.

The fiesta spread

Less fun, but lasting all month and still not resolved, was the Revolution of the Appliances. First, in February, the dishwasher began leaking. A technician came out and “fixed” it, but it continued to leak water all over the floor. As of today, I have made 23 phone calls (in French!) and two visits, all to no avail–and it’s under warranty! We will try again after our return from an upcoming trip to Texas. Also, the washing machine is making a weird noise (the technician said it will take about two weeks to get the part required for repair), and the shower periodically emits a bad smell. Liviing in France is great, but like anywhere else, it has its frustrations.

Recalcitrant dishwasher

March has been an especially challenging month due to Phil’s cardiac rehabilitation. He’s fine, but he has heart disease, and France takes chronic conditions seriously. So for  three weeks, Monday through Friday, a medical taxi picked him up at 7:30 am and brought him home from the clinic (exhausted!) at 4:30 pm. He spent each day exercising: stationary bicycling, walking on the outdoor track, stretching, and doing weight training. He and the other patients had ten-minute breaks after each exercise session, and they were served lunch each day. We’re both relieved that it’s over (although he can do this annually), but he feels great. And I’m happy to have him back home! Oh, and the cost? Zero. Can you imagine what this would cost in the U.S., even if such a thing were available?

March was also a social whirl. There were lunches with friends Sue and Margi, Jennifer, Jo and Dennis, and Linda and Sandi. There was a wonderful dinner party hosted by Ann-Lii and Fredrick, featuring raclette, a delicious cheese-based dish that we hadn’t had since moving to France. Now I want a raclette grill!

Raclette spread: delicious!

That dinner party evolved into a dance party lasting into the wee hours. The next day my knees were angry, but it was worth it! We also spent a Saturday with friends Jo and Dennis, who live in a tiny village about an hour from us. We drove to their house and they drove us all (including their beautiful, sweet Husky, Denali) to a special restaurant on the Canal du Midi, called le Pourquoi Pas (translates to Why Not?). After an adventure on a narrow, muddy dirt road, we enjoyed a lovely lunch in this cozy restaurant frequented by canal barge travelers.

And we hosted a special-purpose lunch with friends Gwen and Tom, so that Phil could provide some painting tips to fledgling and talented artist Gwen, who is taking up painting. Tom surprised her at Christmas with an easel and paints, along with everything she’ll need to get started, and she brought her first work-in-progress, which is astonishingly good, for Phil’s input.

Gwen & Tom, or, as I like to call them, G&T

March is also my birthday month, and the celebration lasted over several days. Nicholas, the waiter at our Thursday coffee group, must have heard someone talking about my birthday, because along with my coffee he brought a birthday candle. On a saucer. Just the candle. Too cute and funny!

Birthday candle from Nicholas

Then there was a special birthday lunch with Linda, Brecka, and Sandi, gorgeous lilies and a lemon tree from Phil, and a special dinner for two at Chez Delagare. Birthday drinks with Jana, whose birthday was a few days before mine, presents from friends and family, and a surprise dinner with Margi and Michael at Terminal 1 followed, and several days later friend Shelia treated me to yet another delicious birthday lunch!

Birthday lilies!

March also included a very bad haircut for me, renewing our street parking pass (because our car is too big for our garage), obtaining a Metropole pass (for reduced admission to museums and more), French lessons five days per week, another meal with Dave and Sue, and a Sunday afternoon spent addressing “Register to vote!” post cards for Democrats Abroad. Phil and I attended a fabulous and strange contemporary performance of Giselle, and we had a planning call with friends Michael and Sara for their October visit.

Birthday lemon tree; I named her Limoncella

And at the very end of the month we completed the donation of our apartment to our kids (for inheritance tax savings; don’t worry, they can’t kick us out!), attended the funeral of a lovely friend, enjoyed a wonderful apéro dinatoire (kind of a happy hour that serves as an informal dinner with heavy hors d’ouvres), and hosted an Easter lunch (with the blanquette de veau I mentioned above). Dessert was a gorgeous and delicious chocolate cake made by Linda.

This cake was as delicious as it was beautiful!

See why I’m tired? March was a wild and windy month with so many good things. We are grateful for all the wonderful friends we have here and for the busy, exciting adventure of life in France. Now it’s time for a rest!

Spring!

A Couple of Nanas Go to Paris

A Girlfriend Trip to the City of Light

In late January, the New York Times published an article about fashion designer Iris Van Herpen’s one-woman retrospective show at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. I’d never heard of her, but the photos of her designs were mind-blowing, and I sent them to my friend Margi. “Gorgeous!” she replied. “We should pop up to see the exhibit!” And thus was born a grand plan for a “voyage entre nanas”–a girlfriends’ trip.

Iris Van Herpen atelier, reproduced for the show

We found a date in February and started planning. First up was a place to stay. Since we’d be taking the train into the Gare de Lyon, Margi found us a wonderful hotel nearby, the Hotel Reisner. A dance afficionado, Margi also found a performance at the beautiful Opera Garnier, so we bought tickets. And of course dining in Paris was high on our list, so we booked a dinner at one of David Lebovitz’s favorites.

Plans confirmed, we set out. I have to tell you, this was one of those unusual trips where EVERYTHING went perfectly! The train was on time, comfortable, and not too crowded. We arrived and headed to the hotel, where we were too early to check in but were greeted so warmly we felt at home. Bags stowed, we walked a couple of blocks to a charming little restaurant, the kind where regulars are greeted like family.

The food was excellent–a stir fry for Margi, couscous for me–and we splurged on café gourmand, an espresso served with several tiny desserts. I love ordering café gourmand, which lets me avoid tough decisions and sample several desserts. And get a small hit of caffeine after lunch. Yum.

Ile flotante, one of several sample-sized desserts served in a café gourmand

Full and happy, we strolled back to the hotel, where our hosts had arranged side-by-side rooms. This little hotel is a gem, featuring beautiful décor, kind staff, and a great location

My hotel room: tiny but beautiful

Can you guess what we did next? Of course! Nanas need to shop! We strolled for hours, peeking into windows (not one but TWO bespoke shoe ateliers!), trying on shoes, where we took a pass on 450-euro beauties that squeaked or hurt, and enjoying the cool, cloudy day. In Paris. Margi lived in Paris as a university student and has visited many times over the years, so she was a fabulous guide. And yes, of course we had to stop for an afternoon glass of wine.

We headed back for a quick rest before our first big treat: dinner at à la biche au bois (roughly translated as “the doe in the woods”), a restaurant that is on David Lebovitz’s list of favorites.

à la biche au bois

We were welcomed like regulars and ushered to our table. I use that term rather loosely, because all the tables are crowded together so that one can chat up one’s neighbors or simply eavesdrop on their conversations. We ordered from our very charming and funny waiter and settled in to enjoy the repast. My entrée was les oefs durs mayonnaise; sounds fancy, right? It’s simply hard-boiled eggs topped with mayonnaise, but it was sublime.

Les Oefs durs Mayonnaise

I’ve forgotten Margi’s entrée, but for our plat we both enjoyed coq au vin, which was served family-style with a vat of perfect mashed potatoes (As we ate, we stared at two men at a nearby table who devoured steaks with a MOUNTAIN of fries. That platter of fries would have been enough for eight people, but these two guys ate every morsel!). Next up was the cheese course, featuring the best Cantal I’ve ever tasted. This was followed by a delicious op. After dessert we were served a complimentary glass of eau-de-vie. That meal was unforgettable. You’re probably wondering how expensive it was, right? All in, with a delicious bottle of wine, we each paid $71.

The next morning we met up at a bakery down the street for coffee and pastries before heading out. We walked la Promenade Plantée (the elevated walk that inspired New York’s High Line), shopped (this time I bought shoes and Margi bought earrings), and strolled through a huge, wonderful indoor and outdoor market featuring gorgeous produce, meats, clothes, antiques, and much more. After lunch at Le Verre à Vin, where we ate the best mille feuille I’ve ever had, we headed to the main event, the Iris Van Herpen retrospective.

Iris Van Herpen design

Did I mention that it poured rain all day? It’s Paris in February, after all. Undaunted, we stomped through the puddles and checked our coats and umbrellas before climbing the stairs to the exhibit. 

These dresses were spectacular!

The exhibit was much, much more crowded than we’d anticipated. With wall-to-wall people, it was hard to see everything, and we skipped a couple of videos due to the crowds. But the gowns….

Spectacular!

We were surprised to read that many of the gowns had been worn by famous people–Lady Gaga, Jennifer Lopez, Beyoncé, and Natalie Portman, among others.

Gorgeous!

It was a lot to take in! I ordered the catalogue, which will be a treasured souvenir. This exhibit was spectacular, and if you have an opportunity to see it (it’s going to other countries and possibly to the U.S.), I hope you’ll go!

I think this might be my favorite!

While at the Musée des Art Decoratifs, we visited the other major exhibition, Mode et Sport, d’un Podium a l’Autre, which features sports fashions from the 1800s to the present. I was astonished at how women played tennis, climbed mountains, and participated in other sports wearing corsets, high heels, and bulky layers of fabric.

Fascinating exhibit featuring sports outfits

At this point we’d been on our feet for hours and had walked over five miles, so of course we needed to stop for an apéro before the ballet. We chose the historic Belle Epoc Cafe de la Paix, next to the Opera Garnier, where we were refreshed with a couple of glasses of wine, accompanied (bien sur!) by frites and croquettes de jambon.

Inside the Cafe de la Paix

And then it was time for the ballet. I had not been to the Opera Garnier since my first trip to Paris, with Phil in 1993, and I’d forgotten how gorgeous it is. We took our seats (middle balcony, the best view for the ballet) and soaked it all in. I could imagine ladies in their finery, gentlement in evening wear, and all the glamour of 19th century Paris. I had also forgotten the Marc Chagall ceiling paintings, which depict some of the most beloved operas and composers.

Marc Chagall masterpiece ceiling

The ballet itself, Sadeh21 by Israeli choreographer Ohad Naharin, was fascinating, confusing, and sometimes disturbing. Naharin (a former Martha Graham dancer) founded the Gaga movement language, which he developed while experiencing a back injury. I read about Gaga but cannot explain or truly understand it; the movements are beautiful, and you’d just have to see it. Margi was familiar with Naharin’s work, and I can see why she loves it; we both were deeply moved by this performance.

The stage, as seen from our perfect seats

The next morning, after coffee and pastries at our new-favorite bakery (la Pariesienne), we packed up and headed to the train. I forgot to get a selfie with the two of us, but you can imagine two nanas, very happy, full of great food and culture, looking forward to their next adventure.