Things get better in March

Spring arrives, and the Roamers finally get out of the house!

Knowing that we needed to “train”–I use this word loosely–for our April walking holiday, we decided to spend the first day of March walking. We headed across the river to the Marché du Lez, an indoor/outdoor market and shopping venue with a huge food court, to try the Belgian food recommended by our friends Dave and Sue. After that meal–pork cutlets, frites, and wine–we definitely needed more walking, so after browsing the shops we walked to the médiatheque and (after three years!) finally got our library cards. 

A rather heavy lunch!

A few days later my friend Mari and I headed out for our Second Annual Nanas’ Trip to Paris. If you read this blog, you might remember that we inaugurated this trip in February 2024, and we had so much fun we decided to make it an annual thing. On the agenda this year were the same lovely hotel as last year, three exhibitions, plenty of delicious food and wine, and lots of walking. Our first stop, after dropping off our bags, was the Louvre Couture exhibit.

One of the gorgeous gowns in the Louvre Couture

This exhibit is unique in my experience, as the gowns are displayed throughout a main wing of the Louvre and are set up to blend in with the permanent exhibits. If you make it to Paris during the exhibit, I hope you’ll get a chance to see it.

I can’t remember the designer, but this gown was gorgeous!

The entire skirt of this gown was made of feathers!

Our hotel concierge recommend several restaurants for dinner, and we chose Brasserie Rosie, a lively restaurant nearby. After we were seated we noticed that we were by far the oldest people in the crowded restaurant! It’s a hip (is that still a word?) hangout for people in their 20s, and we had a grand time there. My favorite thing was the cocktail napkin.

Brasserie Rosie cocktail napkin

The next day was full, as we had two exhibits, both at the Grand Palais, some shopping, and of course food and wine on the agenda. First up was the Chiharu Shiota retrospective. Her magnificent yarn installations defy description.

Just one of the yarn installations in the Chiharu Shiota retrospective

This amazing Japanese artist, who lives in Berlin, had paintings, yarn installations, opera set designs, videos of performance art, and much more. Margi and I were especially fascinated, and moved, by a huge installation featuring dollhouse-sized miniatures in various scenes, all connected by yarn. The yarn was featured throughout the exhibition, and for me it brought to mind how interconnected all things are–especially people.

This photo shows about half of the miniature installation.

After this experience, we needed an emotional break, so we headed out for a bit of shopping and lunch before returning to the Grand Palais for the Dolce & Gabbana exhibit. I highly recommend clicking the link, as my photos don’t do justice to this remarkable experience.

The chandelier room in the Dolce & Gabbana experience

The exhibition took us through many themed rooms, each displaying gorgeous creations. The ten immersive rooms featured music, art, religion, interior design, and even one of the D&G ateliers, where we could glimpse their working environment.

This mannequin is looking into a D&G-decorated SMEG fridge!

The exhibit included shoes, accessories, headpieces, and some truly beautiful jewelry.

This earrings are carved with an excerpt from Frances Hodgson Burnett’s The Secret Garden!

It was a lot to take in, and I’d love to see it all again. If this exhibition comes to a city near you, I highly recommend it!

Beautiful!

All of our meals were great, but my favorite was at a restaurant that Margi and her husband Michael had visited before, Le Square Trousseau. This cozy bistro, founded in the early 1900s, was beautiful and convivial. The service was excellent, and we loved the food. Highly recommended!

My favorite restaurant from this trip

We are already looking forward to next year’s trip! Back home, Phil and I had a quiet week before a special treat the following weekend: the Opéra Orchestre gala! We’ve always loved opera (my first was La Traviata in 8th grade), and in Montpellier we get to attend regularly. Since Roderick Cox, a brilliant young American, was chosen as the new maestro, we’ve become fans.

The Roamers at the gala

What a fun evening that was! We were greeted with cocktails, Champagne, and passed hors d’ouevres as we roamed through the building. There was an art auction (I kept my hands down but enjoyed watching the bidding!) interspersed by musical performances in the theatre. The dinner that followed was delicious, and we enjoyed more performances throughout.

A beautiful, musical, delicious evening

Like January and February, March was mostly cold, windy, and rainy. One nice day we drove to La Grande Motte, a resort town by the sea, for lunch and a stroll. After lunch the wind began whipping up yet another storm!

Storm clouds looming over La Grande Motte

One day we received a notice from the post office that we owed 13 euros on a package. Phil collected it and handed it to me. “What is this???” I asked, “Read the label,” he replied. The label said CANNED BEANS. What??? Then he told me to look at the sender’s name. It was Michael, our friend who visited us last fall with his partner Sara. We were delighted to see what was inside!

Ro-tel, martini olives, and beautiful cocktail napkins–what a lovely and unexpected gift from our friends!

That same day, my birthday present arrived. I’d had my eye on this beautiful buffet for our entryway for many weeks, and after lots of searching we (well, I) finally decided to order it. It was very securely shipped, and unpacking it was a workout!

Just a portion of the packaging from our buffet!

The following Sunday we met friends Jo and Dennis for a tour of the Chateau Laurens, an architectural masterpiece we’d visited before. This time I was most fascinated with the stained glass in the study, and especially the portion featuring the sirens who sang sailors to their death.

The gorgeous stained glass doors in the study

The poem at the bottom of the scene reads, “Sirènes de la mer au sourire dégume, Aux yeux verts, aux cheveux docent les couchants. Votre charme est mortel ! Pour vos palais de brume Vous tentez d’arracher les hommes à leur champs Et vous perdez les fils des femmes par vos chants. Sirènes de la mer au sourire dégume.”

A rough translation (forgive my mistakes!):  “Sirens of the sea with disgusting smiles, with your green eyes, your soft hair that sweetens the sunsets. Your charm is deadly! For your palaces of mist you try to tear men from their fields and drown women’s sons with your songs. Sirens of the sea with disgusting smiles.”

One day last week I took a different route to my French lesson and came across one of the many WWII memorial plaques one can see throughout our city. The war is still very much present in the minds of the French people, and we have been touched by how they honor their dead.

A plaque honoring a concentration camp victim

At the end of the week my friend Sandi and I ventured out to a tiny village in the mountains, where a British couple had announced they were giving away their extensive book collection. We enjoyed gorgeous scenery, selected a few books, and after coffee and a chat with Linda and Graeme began our 70-kilometer drive home. But we took a wrong turn! After too many hairpin curves and death-defying dropoffs, we realized that the GPS was steering us wrong and we turned around. Two hours later we arrived home, a bit shaken but glad for our adventure.

Giant ant sculptures along the route

The last event of March was the second annual fiesta hosted by friends Dave and Sue. They used to do this party every year in Chicago, and now they’ve brought the tradition to France. We’ve been honored to help with the party, along with friends Anne and John, and this year almost 40 guests enjoyed the fabulous repast.

Just part of the offerings on the buffet table

And that brings March to an end! We’re now enjoying beautiful spring weather and looking forward to fun times in April. Next weekend we’ll be participating in a resistance sing-along with people of various nationalities to protest against the awful things happening in the U.S. We’re grateful to be living in France with like-minded friends in these harrowing times.

What happened to february???

The Roamers stay home

Well, first of all, it rained. A lot. This has been the rainiest winter since we arrived in France–which only made us appreciate the beautiful days even more! Our friend Margi shared this gorgeous double rainbow photo taken from her terrace.

What an image!!!

One fun thing to do on rainy, cold winter days is to reflect on the fun we’ve had. Our friend Shelia sent this photo taken by our host at le Pat’ Daniels, the restaurant where we celebrated Shelia’s birthday last month. Pat insisted that we all give him the finger, so we did. Well, perhaps not ALL of us. . .

Hilarious fun being had

I didn’t get out much in February, due to the rain and also staying home for six days fighting off (successfully!) a respiratory bug, but I did make it to almost all of my French lessons (two private, one-hour lessons and two 1.5-hour conversation classes per week). There is a cute shop featuring handmade items on my route, and one day I had to stop to take a photo of the sewing doll in the window. Such creativity!

I especially like her spool-of-thread chapeau!

Phil has been painting almost every day. He keeps getting better and better, and since our visas don’t allow us to work in France, instead of selling his paintings he has been giving them to close friends. Linda and Brecka have created a “Phil Shroyer Gallery” in their beautiful apartment, featuring two of his works.

Linda and Brecka’s Phil Shroyer wall

After six days without leaving our apartment, I was a bit stir crazy and announced to Phil we were going on an outing (it’s winter school holidays here, so no French lessons for a week). We decided on a mini-road trip in Pic Saint-Loup, our local mountain. First stop was les Matelles, for lunch at Brasserie le Donjon. Les Matelles is a charming village by Le Lirou, a small river that feeds into the Lez, which runs through Montpellier near our apartment. 

Walking along the Lirou in Les Matelles

We wandered the tiny, steep streets, admiring the ancient stone houses in this medieval village, until the restaurant opened. I had to take a photo of a hilarious sign at a closed restaurant. 

The sign says, “On leave. Tired. Reopening March 6.”

Those of you who know me well may remember that one of my dearest friends, Gwyn Harwell, who died in 2007 at the age of 81, returned to me in a dream after her death, as a dragonfly. She had promised me that if it was possible to communicate after she died, she would, and ever since that dream, when I see a dragonfly I believe it’s Gwyn saying hello.

My friend Gwyn, saying hello via someone’s street number sign

We loved Brasserie le Donjon, not only for the delicious food, but also for the warm welcome. After lunch, it was on to our first winery visit: Domaine de l’Hortus, where we sampled several wines (they have so many, ranging from about $15 to over $100) and bought two bottles (the more modestly priced ones). Our second stop, at Chateau La Roque, was in a gorgeous setting with such a kind guide (her English is even worse than my French, so we spoke Franglish), and I fell a bit in love with one of their rosés. We also bought a bottle of their olive oil. 

Chateau La Roque

And that brought February to and end. Oh, but I did work a lovely puzzle that daughter Amelia gave me for Christmas. It was SO much more fun than that map of Montpellier! And now we’re in March, with the promise of spring! I’m grateful.

Such a fun puzzle to work on rainy winter days!

 

January, a quiet month

The Roamers rest

After the challenging month of December, we needed a little rest, and that’s what we got in January. Still feeling the effects of my December health issues, I mostly stayed home for the first couple of weeks, venturing out only for French lessons. But one morning in early January I was greeted with a lovely rainbow, promising better days ahead.

Rainbow view from our terrace

Staying in afforded me the obligation opportunity to finish the puzzle I’d started in October. I’d neglected it because (a) we were traveling a lot and (b) it was the hardest puzzle ever–and the accompanying poster didn’t match the puzzle! It’s a map of Montpellier, and I bought it thinking it would help me better navigate the city. Weeks of work finally yielded the desired result, and our dining table was returned to service.

The finished puzzle!

In mid-January we joined friends Shelia and Steve for a wonderful birthday dinner (Shelia’s) at Le Pat’Daniel’s, a very special restaurant where most of the food features Jack Daniels whiskey. The jovial, bearded proprieter is the greeter, waiter, chef, dishwasher, and entertainer in this tiny gem. Dressed in a kilt and t-shirt, he found time to chat and make jokes with all the guests–and the food was excellent! 

Le Pat’Daniel’s, our new favorite neighborhood restaurant

Last summer we struck up a conversation with Graeme and Eileen, a British couple who spend part of their time in Montpellier, and we quickly became friends. Last time they were here, we hosted them, along with friends Margi and Michael, for dinner, and in January, Margi and Michael hosted all of us. We enjoyed superb company, a delicious dinner, and excellent wines–and Eileen took a picture!

Enjoying our evening with lovely friends

Our friends Dave and Sue never met a stranger, and the language barrier has not impeded their ability to make great French friends. To honor the French people who have made them feel welcome here–relocation advisors, hair stylists, cheese mongers, bakers, language instructors, butchers, and more–they hosted a brunch for about 30 people. We were honored to be asked to help with the party, which was a huge success. I helped cook, along with friends Anne and John, and Phil served as bartender. The spread was fabulous, and everyone, including a couple of adorable toddlers, had a great time.

Dave and Sue’s bounteous buffet

While I was resting, Phil was painting, and one of his works was so beautiful I framed it and hung it in our entry. Now, when anyone arrives chez nous, this gorgeous painting is the first thing they see. And he named the restaurant in the foreground after our granddaughter!

Phil’s painting hanging in our entry

On January 23 we celebrated our third Franciversary with a sumptuous dinner at Ebullition, which serves the best food I’ve had in Montpellier. Our friends Michael and Sara took us there for lunch during their October visit, and this was a great excuse to return. It was just as wonderful as our first time, and we look forward to celebrating many more special occasions there.

Our amuses bouches and Champagne at Ebullition

Finally, on the last day of the month, we joined other Opéra Orchestre supporters at the rehearsal for tonight’s performance of Traversée, with works by Ravel, Barber, and Tchaikovsky, conducted by our new American Maestro, Roderick Cox. It was fascinating to see the rehearsal, to hear Maestro Cox’s coaching, and to understand a bit about how these amazing works take shape. The reception afterward, with Champagne and appetizers, was lovely as well.

The orchestra about to begin rehearsal

And so we bid January farewell. I’m grateful for the time to rest, the time spent with friends, and the opportunity to live in a city with such culture, cuisine, and kindness.

A gorgeous sunset shot from Shelia

December was . . . Interesting

The Roamers survive the festive season

No sooner had we returned home, unpacked, and settled into our “normal” routine, than I came down with a robust case of bronchitis. This seems to be an annual event for me, so I hunkered down, saw the doctor, and stayed home for almost three weeks. I did make it out for most of my French lessons, and I was rewarded one day with a lovely rainbow. Promising fluency one day, perhaps?

The Rainbow Promise of French Fluency

Just as I was starting to feel human again, it was time for my cataract surgery. I was impressed with the efficiency and kindness of the staff (although the surgery was more uncomfortable than I expected), and Phil especially loved the disposable outfit they gave me.

Eye shield fashionista

Four days later, we caught an early train for Paris, where we would spend Christmas at la Fantasie, a boutique hotel in the 9th arrondissement (for which we used an annual credit card benefit). We checked in quickly and headed out to the Musée Rodin, which was. . .closed on Mondays. No problem, we simply made our way, aka walked an hour (with a stroll through a nearby Christmas market), to the bar at the Meurice, where we enjoyed a cocktail before our teatime reservation. The tea at Restaurant la Dali, a splurge, was intended to put us in the holiday spirit. It was nice, lots of sweets, but we don’t need to do it again.

 

The next day, Christmas Eve, was unscheduled, and we spent most of the day wandering the streets. Shop windows, churches, people-watching, and simply strolling are special fun in Paris, despite the crowds.

A beautiful shop window

The famous Galleries Lafayette Christmas tree

a

Galleries Lafayette’s ceiling

Nativity scene at a church; I’ve forgotten which one

One of many amazing animated window displays at Printemps

We noticed several blocked-off streets and heard lots of sirens, and as we made our way back to the hotel we discovered the cause: a fire in the upper floors of a beautiful Haussmann building near the Gare St. Lazare.

They were still fighting the fire when we walked by

It took a lot of searching to find restaurant reservations for Christmas Eve and Christmas, but we were happy with our choices. Christmas Eve dinner was at Sorza, a tiny jewel of a restaurant that seats only about 24 people.

Sorza; highly recommended!

On Christmas day we enjoyed a video call with kids before heading to a bouillon for lunch. A bouillon is traditionally known as a large restaurant where one can get good quality food at a reasonable price. We chose this one, Chez Julien, for its gorgeous Belle Epoque décor, but we truly enjoyed the food as well.

Beautiful stained glass ceiling at Chez Julien

We noticed a French group at a nearby table taking photos, so we offered to take one for them. And they returned the favor!

Roamers toasting Christmas

For several days I’d thought I’d cracked a rib coughing (see aforementioned bronchitis), but on Christmas afternoon the pain worsened. By the next morning I couldn’t move or breathe without severe pain (when I can’t eat or sip my coffee, it’s serious!), so at the advice of our hotel front desk staff we headed out to the American Hospital. The good news: no broken ribs, just a muscle sprain/tear. The bad news: it took SEVEN HOURS to get through the process, which included a Covid/RSV test, EKG, blood draw, IV, and Xrays. After paying my $750 (much of which will be reimbursed), I noticed my hand where they’d removed the IV was puffed up. Hmm.

A nurse applied alcohol and re-bandaged the hand. And apologized, profusely.

We had a reserved time at the Musée D’Orsay, so Phil went on his own while I stayed at the hospital. When I finally arrived back at the hotel, it was time to head out for dinner before the ballet we were attending at the Palais Garnier. Last February my friend Margi and I had drinks at the Café de la Paix, next to the opera house, so I’d reserved a table for dinner there. It’s a gorgeous Belle Epoque restaurant where you can easily imagine the elegant people who were regulars back in the day.

Gazing past my dessert at Phil

After a lovely dinner (and paracetamol for me), we strolled to the Palais Garnier, the gorgeous, historic opera house that was the inspiration for “The Phantom of the Opera.” On our first trip to Paris in 1993, we had seen a ballet there, and we were excited to return. We had great seats for the Play Ballet by Alexander Ekman, which was amazing–playful, exuberant, creative, and fun. 

Waiting for the performance to begin

And of course I had to take a photo of the incredibly beautiful ceiling by Marc Chagall!

Palais Garnier ceiling, by Marc Chagall

The next day we wandered the streets again, stopping for coffee and later for lunch, before checking out of our hotel. We made it to the train station with a robust train picnic, complete with wine, for our three-hour trip home to Montpellier. 

A vintage child’s tea set in a shop window

So now we’re back home, sleeping in our own bed and getting some needed rest. I’m hardly coughing, my ribs are slowly getting better, the cataract surgery follow-up was positive, and my poor ugly hand is gradually healing. But honestly? After this month, I’m ready to start a new year!

The hand, three days later

 

at sea

The Roamers cruise the ocean

While we spent most of November on a cruise, we started off the month with a special lunch honoring our friend Tom’s birthday. Where he had dessert. Just a small one.

Tom with his profiteroles birthday dessert. Yes, he ate it all!

We also enjoyed a long-anticipated lunch at Les Grand Buffets in Narbonne, joined by friends Sheri and Dennis, Sue and Dave, and Shelia and Steve. Amazing!

We made our reservation seven months in advance–for the first available date!

A few days later, we flew to Rome to begin our voyage. We had decided on a Princess cruise because it stopped in Casablanca, along with Cagliari (Sardinia), Malaga, Madeira, and Santa Cruz de Tenerife. We spent the night near the airport before taking a one-hour taxi ride to the terminal at Civitavecchia. After a long wait, we boarded and found our cabin. Lesson learned: when booking a cruise, check the age of the ship. The Caribbean Princess is the oldest ship in the Princess fleet–no USB ports, only one electrical outlet in the cabin (American, which didn’t fit our EU plugs), dated décor, and the worst hair dryer ever. But every staff member was awesome!

Our home for 16 days

We set sail, and the next morning we arrived in Cagliari, on the gorgeous Italian island, Sardinia. We had booked a tour that included wine tasting at an estate from the 1930s, where they produce wine and olive oil. They’re developing a botanical garden, and they also display interesting sculptures along the path through the vineyard.

Gorgeous view of Cagliari

A room at the wine estate

The next day was spent at sea before our arrival in Malaga, where a thunderstorm was in progress. All excursions were cancelled, stores and restaurants were closed, and residents were advised to shelter inside, but we left the ship armed with raincoats and umbrellas (which were useless because of the wind), to see what we could. 

 

I got this photo during a lull in the rainstorm.

We spent about three hours walking in Malaga, returning to the ship soaked but happy for the adventure–and grateful for hot showers! We later learned that the captain had closed the ship just after we left, so we were lucky to get out.

The next morning, we landed at Casablanca. Our all-day excursion started with a visit to the largest mosque, where we were not permitted entry (I had bought a scarf anticipating going inside) but strolled the grounds.

Mosque at morning

Our tour bus returned to the mosque that night so that we could see it lighted. The architecture is remarkable, unlike anything we’d seen before.

Mosque at night

In between mosque visits, we headed to Rabat, a beautiful seaside city north of Casablanca, where we enjoyed a Moraccan lunch in a restaurant that began as a private home.

Moroccan lunch: crowded and delicious.

Our tour group walked to a nearby park to admire the plants and the ocean view before boarding the bus for a trip to the tomb of Mohammed V. 

Tomb of Mohammed V

Everyone was disappointed that our tour guide declined to take us to the market (he said there had been complaints, but later others on our cruise said it was wonderful), opting instead for a single shop selling mostly souvenir-type merchandise. After this, and a nightime tour of Casablanca, we returned to the ship around 9:30 pm.

Morccan billboard at night

After that long day we appreciated the sea day that followed!

Lazy day at sea

Our next stop was Funchal in Madeira. We had toured this beautiful place before, so this time we opted for a walking food tour, which turned out to be our favorite excursion. We tasted chocolates featuring Madeira fruits, as well as a pastel, a special custard tart served with cinnamon, before heading to the market to take in the sights, sounds, and smells: fresh flowers, beautiful fruits and vegetables, fish, and much more.

Our guide explaining the monstera delicioso, which is eaten over several days as it ripens.

After a delicious lunch where we sampled far too much food, we stopped at a bar for a delicious poncha, the famous Madeiran cocktail made from honey, citrus juice, and alcohol.

We returned to the ship full and happy. The next morning was our last stop, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, arguably the most beautiful place we visited.

Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Canary Islands

Here we opted for another bus tour, where we learned about the microclimates of this volcanic island–which is due for an eruption. Our guide explained that they have an event every 100 years, and they’re a few years past due.

Seismic measurements indicate this volcano is ready to erupt!

After a photo stop at a park where locals were playing cards, we headed to our guide’s hometown, where we visited the orchid garden Sitio Litre

Amazing orchid garden, apparently a favorite haunt of Agatha Christie

We were given plenty of time to walk around northern Tenerife, window shopping and watching people enjoy the sunny day, before heading back to the ship. Now began our eight days at sea. . .

Sunrise at sea

We enjoyed beautiful views of the sea, especially at sunrise and sunset, and we spent lots of time reading, walking, and eating. But honestly, the activities aboard didn’t interest us much; we don’t gamble or dance much (well, we did try a foxtrot class, which was not a success) or play tv-type game shows, and many of the activities turned out to be sales pitches for the salon, art auctions, shops, etc. One evening, inspired by my favorite author, MFK Fisher, who wrote about this exact meal on a tranatlantic voyage, we enjoyed a picnic in our cabin: chicken and mayonnaise sandwiches with iced vodka! With that we re-watched an old Thanksgiving movie, “What’s Cooking?”

Ingredients for our cabin feast

We did have a delightful surprise during our sea days. I had met Deb two years ago when she and her husband Tim were house-sitting near Montpellier, and we have been Facebook friends since. One day at sea her post popped up, and I realized that they were on the same cruise! We very much enjoyed reconnecting, spending time getting better acquainted. She is a writer, and you might like to check out her novels

Sunset from our balcony

After eight long days at sea, we were happy to get off the ship. After a stop to replace Phil’s broken-beyond-repair-but-only-three-years-old Macbook, we headed to the Miami airport, where we were greeted in the lounge with a glass of Champagne.

Champagne at the airport

One nine-hour flight later, we landed in Barcelona, one of our favorite cities. Honestly, I could live there (but I love living in France too much to move!).

Arriving in Barcelona

At the recommendation of our friends, we stayed at the Casa Camper Barcelona hotel, conveniently located near the Rambla. We checked in and headed out to explore (and to try to stay awake until at least 8pm).

One of the beautiful buildings in Barcelona, this one the site of a memorable dinner in 2022 with friends Joni and Scott

At Deb’s suggestion, we visited the Palau de la Musica Catalana, a spectacular music venue built in the Catalan Modernist style. If you are lucky enough to visit Barcelona, don’t miss this amazing building!

Palau de Musica. This photo doesn’t begin to do it justice!

Our hotel was lovely, and we will definitely return. It happens to house a Michelin-starred restaurant, which we skipped after so much rich food on the cruise–but I was fascinated to see in the window an autographed veste blanche from El Bulli, the now-shuttered “best restaurant in the world.”

El Bulli jacket

The next morning we shopped at the market (amazing!) for a train picnic before heading home. We arrived in Montpellier early in the evening, happy to be home after almost three weeks away. And our Thanksgiving dinner was leftover empanadas and croquettas from our train picnic!

Thanksgiving dinner, ready to go into the oven!

We had visitors!

Fun with friends from the U.S.

Early fall is a lovely time to visit Montpellier, and we were lucky to have two fun couples visit. First up were Carol and Richard, friends of 33 years. We were neighbors when our kids were little, and we’ve always stayed close despite being geographically far away. 

After they settled into their hotel room, we enjoyed strolling around the city before dinner at l’Artichaut, one of our favorite restaurants. The next morning after coffee and croissants, we left for an adventure in Aigues-Mortes, a medieval town in the Camargue, the marshland famous for white horses, pink flamingos, and salt. First we took the little train tour of the salt production facility, which was fascinating, and which included a quick climb up the salt mountain. 

Salt from the Mediterranean sea!

After our train ride, of course we had to visit the museum and gift shop, where we loaded up on fleur de sel, the finishing salt we use daily, as well as a few gifts for upcoming guests.

Carol and Richard were game for some silly fun.

We then headed into Aigues-Mortes, a fascinating medieval town where you can walk around the entire old city on the ramparts (as long as you’re careful; those old stone walkways are treacherous!). After lunch we strolled around the city, shopping for souvenirs and gifts for our friends to take home.

City view from the ramparts

We came home and enjoyed dinner chez Shroyer, and the next morning we met up to visit the farmers’ market held every Sunday in our neighborhood. Carol has a friend and former colleague who lives near Montpellier with her husband and two children, so we’d invited them over for brunch. After that, we all headed to a beach Phil and I had never visited before, la plage Aresquiers. With no restaurants or services, it’s a much more natural (and less crowded) beach than the others in our area. We had a grand time walking off brunch and enjoying the gorgeous scenery.

Enjoying a beautiful day at the beach

We spent the next day walking through Montpellier, visiting the various sights, enjoying an al fresco lunch, and catching up on all the news, and we ended the day with dinner at our house. Carol and Richard left the next day for Normandy to tour the WWII sites, and finally a few days in Paris before heading home to Texas.

A couple of weeks later we headed to the train station to greet our North Carolina friends Michael and Sara, who would be spending a few nights with us–they were willing to sleep on a queen-sized pull-out sofa and share our only bathroom! Michael and I met through work (he was my boss!), and while we’d only met Sara once before, she was one of those people who immediately feels like an old friend. Their train was late, so we headed home for some soup and an early bedtime, because the next day would be very busy.

Sara, Michael, and Phil casting long shadows

We headed out to walk around the city, hitting many of the monuments and sights, and enjoying a coffee at Café de la Mer, our favorite coffee stop. After more walking and a bit of shopping, we arrived at a very special place, a fabulous restaurant treat from Michael and Sara. Our lunch at Ebullition was the best meal I’ve had in Montpellier. Owned by a young couple, the restaurant is beautiful and calm, the food is gorgeous, delicious, and innovative, and the service is spectacular. 

My butternut squash amuse bouche, which was more like an entrée. And it was served after several tiny amuse bouches!

 

My zucchini main course, a beautiful and delicious garden!

Michael and Sara wanted to get a feel for our lives in France, so that evening we invited a few friends over for an apéro and to meet our guests. We had a wonderful evening–good food, lots of stories, and the fun of watching our friends make friends.

The next morning after a leisurely breakfast, we headed out for the day trip we’d planned, to Couvertoirade, a village founded by the Knights Templar. We had beautiful weather for the pleasant drive, and we were enchanted by this little village high on a hill.

The view from Couvertoirade

We strolled through the village, visited the church and cemetery, had lunch at one of the two restaurants in town, and enjoyed the spectacular views from the top of the village.

One of the many little rocky pedestrian passages in Couvertoirade

Being a fan of pottery, I stopped in at the atelier of a woman who makes all sorts of items, and I found a crescent moon for our terrace. When we realized she doesn’t take credit cards and I had no cash, she simply gave me her bank information and sent me home with the piece, trusting me to pay for it when we got home (which I gratefully did!). The French are such warm, wonderful people!

Our next stop was about an hour away, the famous Viaduc de Millau. Completed in 2004, it is the tallest bridge in the world. We visited the on-site museum and gift shop before paying the 20 euro toll to cross.

A model of the bridge. The museum also offered a film about the construction.

It was fascinating, and we were glad we’d made the trip, but then it was time to go home and make dinner. The next day we walked Michael and Sara to the train station to see them off for the Spanish segment of their journey. It was a great visit, and we were so happy that they made time to come to see us.

The rest of October has been pretty quiet for us, providing some much-needed down time. We are infinitely grateful for the wonderful friends in our life, especially those who come to visit us in France!

How to say goodbye

Remembering our friend René Sollberger

In 2013 we moved into a beautiful loft in the heart of Boston, where Phil met our new neighbors as they were moving in. Pilar and her husband, René, quickly became dear friends, sharing holidays and dinners during our time in the Boston area and staying in touch through several moves, meetups in various cities, and plenty of emails and Facebook posts. 

René and Pilar in their loft, next door to us

René took this picture of a Thanksgiving together at our beach home in Plymouth, MA, with my high school bestie Patricia.

 

When we moved to France, René and Pilar were among our first house guests, where they fell in love with Montpellier and the south of France.

Enjoying cocktails at our favorite hangout, SmashBar (now closed, unfortunately)

We had only a few days together, but we packed in plenty of fun, walking our legs off, playing pétanque, and enjoying pleasant May weather. And food. We have shared so many wonderful meals together–including a memorable evening when René made authentic Swiss fondue for us, served on special plates that had been in his family for years.

Dinner in the garden of our first Montpellier apartment

René and Pilar were both journalists, and when we met in Boston René was hard at work on a book about Swiss diplomat Jakob Kellenberger. A man of many talents and interests, in addition to being a journalist and author, René also was a travel professional. It cracked me up that as a Swiss person, he led tours of the American Southwest–for Americans! You can learn more about René on his website

One of the delightful holiday cards René and Pilar sent each year–this one features their dog, Jet.

René and Pilar eventually left America for northwest Switzerland, where they bought and customized a gorgeous new apartment which would be their dream home. We planned to visit them as soon as they were fully settled. Tragically, on May 9, only six weeks after moving in, René succumbed to a massive cardiac event that ended his life at only 66 years of age. He died in his sleep, leaving a heartbroken widow and hundreds of bereaved family and friends, including Phil and me.

The beautiful invitation to the party to celebrate René’s life

Pilar is a remarkable woman: she was embedded with the military in Iraq, she is an accomplished pilot and flight instructor, professional speaker, journalist, world traveler, and much more. And astonishingly, in the depths of grief, she created a party to celebrate René’s life. Not a funeral, which he would have hated, but a true celebration, at a beautiful, rustic horse trekking ranch in the Jura mountains of Switzerland–for 60 people! 

Because we had never visited Switzerland (and because we are, after all, Roamers), Phil and I decided to make a short vacation of our trip. We drove to Annecy, which is a gorgeous alpine town nestled beside a lake. We spent two nights there, enjoying the scenery, the fresh air (so nice after the heat and humidity at home), and the delicious cuisine.

A lake and chateau view during our drive around Lake Annecy

Our friends Dave and Sue had recently visited Annecy and highly recommended “the best, most authentic Mexican food we’ve found in France” at La Taqueria by Los Primos. Of course we had to go, and it did not disappoint. One of the things we most miss from our U.S. life is Mexican food, so this was truly a treat.

 

Happy Mexican food Phil

Annecy has been described as the Venice of France, with good reason. We loved walking along the canals, people-watching, and finding special culinary treats from the area.

I took this photo while strolling along the canal.

On our second evening in Annecy we had dinner at the Paul Bocuse restaurant honoring his mother, who was a native of Annecy. We had dined at the original Michelin-starred Bocuse in Lyon and were eager to try Brasserie Irma. We dined on the spacious terrace, and I may or may not have slipped a bit of my fish to the  resident cat.

Brasserie Irma

We left very early the next morning to get to Zurich in time for a lovely lunch at the home of my high school friend and Wild Woman Susan and her Swiss husband Kurt. Our visit to their beautiful apartment was short but very sweet, and they made a fabulous luncheon feast. We hope to return for a longer visit.

And then it was time to drive to the Miramont Horse Trekking Hostel, the site of René’s celebration. Pilar, who lives in the next town, had partnered with David, a former commercial pilot and now the Miramont proprietor, to plan a uniquely beautiful event. We had a tearful reunion with Pilar, who got us into our charming room, before joining the al fresco apéro, where we met guests from all over Europe. We re-met René’s cousins, with whom we’d enjoyed lunch in Austin (where René and Pilar had to translate the entire conversation because his cousins had no English and we had no useable French or German), and all four of us were delighted to be able this time to have some rudimentary French conversations.

After the lovely apéro, which featured some of the best appetizers I’ve had at an event, everyone headed upstairs to the event room. Pilar welcomed everyone in German, the predominant language of the group, and she had thoughtfully printed out an English translation of her comments for the non-German speakers. Pilar was eloquent and graceful a she welcomed her guests, accompanied by slides of René over the years, and spoke of her love. No dry eyes. Then it was time for the delicious buffet dinner, followed by a speech by René’s childhood friend. 

When the time came for Pilar to give her speech, complete with slides of the couple’s wedding, travels, and life together, we were amazed by her composure. Yes, there were tears, but she made it through, ending with “I will always be your Sweetie.” Remembering her speech brings tears but also joy.

Pilar sharing her memories of René

And then she directed us to open the gifts on the tables, one for each person or couple. Pilar had framed a photo of each of us with René, to keep as a remembrance. Ours was taken in our garden in Montpellier during their 2022 visit. At this point there was not a dry eye in the house, but it was time for the band to play. We all danced to wonderful music, with René’s cousin the lead singer. 

Celebration of Life

(Thanks to Wendy Lubetkin for the video!)

It was a bittersweet, wonderful evening that we will always remember. We miss René and are grateful to have the memories of this very special friend.

The next day, at our new friend Wendy’s recommendation, we ventured into the charming medieval town of Estavayer-le-Lac, where frog images abound. Our destination was bizarre: a museum featuring taxidermy frogs in various settings. Creepy, but very interesting!

Frog fète

That evening we, along with another couple, were guests for dinner at Pilar’s beautiful apartment. It was a lovely evening, with wonderful food and more stories of René. We are hoping that Pilar and her dog Jet will visit us in Montpellier soon, but for now it was time to say goodbye.

The next morning we drove to Lausanne for a quick lunch with friends Leslie and Arnaud, who were fresh off a redeye flight and train ride; we were honored that they delayed a much-needed rest to lunch with us. Leslie has a wonderful website and blog that I highly recommend. 

Then it was off to Geneva for our last night in Switzerland. We stayed at a Marriott which turned out to have an excellent restaurant and bar.

My dessert: beautiful AND delicious!

And the next day we returned home. It was a bittersweet, wonderful trip, and we were honored to be part of the party for René. And we will treasure his photo, which rests on my desk next to the coaster René and Pilar gave us several years ago.

We will never forget our friend René.

You say tomato, i say tomate

A Tomato Festival in Clapiers

Aaand, it’s September! Fall weather hasn’t yet arrived here, although the mornings are often pleasant enough to sip coffee on the terrace. On Sunday, we were planning to go to the farmers’ market in our neighborhood, but then I saw a Facebook post about something far more interesting: a tomato festival in nearby Clapiers! When we lived in Boston, we were regular attendees at the annual tomato festival, where visitors could sample hundreds of varieties, learn how to make mozzarella, and participate in a food foraging hike (all of which we loved!). So when we realized Clapiers was just a 20-minute drive from home, we hopped in the car.

The fates were with us, as we found a parking spot near the crowded park. As we entered the festival, we were greeted by a men’s chorus singing lustily, if not entirely together, songs from the Occitane, the region of France where we live. This group is hilarious and fun; if you want to translate, you can read about them here

 

The festival was packed with food stands, activity centers, and information booths touting everything from recycling to growing herbs. After running into friends (!) and chatting a bit, we decided to follow their example and do our shopping first, as the festival featured a bountiful famers’ market.

One of several cheese vendors

But when we came upon the huge booth display of tomatologist Eric Pédebas, which featured over 250 varieties of tomatoes, we had to stop for a while. We chatted with M Pédebas about the varieties–at least as much as I could manage in my toddler-level French–and bought as much as we thought we could use, before buying a tasting plate to share.

Our tasting plate, complete with gazpacho, several varieties of tomatoes, olive oil, and salt: delicious!

I was tempted to eat all these tomatoes before Phil got back from buying a potato pancake topped with sautéed onions and cheese to share. My favorite was the yellow tomato, the name of which I’ve forgotten. But everything was delicious, including the gallette de pommes de terre. Here is a recipe that’s similar to what we ate.

After eating, we returned to the tomato display for a while, just to see all the different varieties. Seeds were on sale, but since our terrace faces north, I haven’t had good luck growing tomatoes, so we settled for as many tomatoes as we could use up in a few days.

Gorgeous tomato display

We finished our shopping and dropped it at the car before continuing our wander through the festival. We saw goats, dogs for adoption, artwork, crafts, and so. much. food. We were tempted by everything, but in the end we simply bought a beautiful tourtière (savory hand pie) to take home. Filled with lardons, onions, two kinds of cheese, and herbs, it made a wonderful late lunch with a crisp white wine. Followed by a nap.

Al fresco munching at the festival

We wandered back to the car, stopping once more to listen to the chorus, and decided to drive aimlessly through the town and surrounding countryside before finding our way home (without using GPS!!!). With the basil we bought, I made pesto to keep in the freezer for a taste of summer in winter. The olive oil is delicious, and we’ll use the apricot nectar for cocktails. We bought several fabulous confits–sun-dried tomato and morels!–along with a beautiful loaf of crusty bread and a golden pattypan squash. And the tomatoes? Well, they will be gone tomorrow.

Our haul from the market

Foggy london town? Nope.

Hot, crowded, expensive, and lots of fun.

August. Not my favorite month. Crowds, heat, and administrative tasks marked the beginning of the month for us. I had lots of tasks, mostly un-fun ones, to accomplish: starting the renewal of our residence permits (and making more than my share of mistakes!), trying (so far unsuccessfully) to get someone to repair/replace our almost-new wine fridge, trying (again, so far unsuccessfully) to get the recall issue on our car fixed, getting an injection and physical therapy for my knee, etc. See? Our life in France is wonderful, but it’s still real life.

An unrelated photo of flowers in the Cotswolds

By the first weekend of August, I was ready for some fun, so I handed Phil a tourist map and asked him to choose a day trip. It was too late for his first choice (a cave with prehistoric paintings), so off we went to Agde, a lovely little town about an hour away. After a stroll and a quick sandwich near the train station, we headed to our destination, the Chateau Laurens. Built as a party palace rather than a home, and now owned by the city, this chateau is an amazing example of Belle Epoch architecture, reflecting the idiosyncrasies of Emmanuel Laurens, a world traveler who used his massive inheritance to create this strange and beautiful mansion.

Just one of the Chateau Laurens rooms; check the link for much better photos!

But August’s main event was our week-long trip to London. We had a British Airways credit from a cancelled trip, which was fortunate, since London is the most expensive city we’ve visited! I had splurged (or at least it seemed like a splurge) on a room at the Royal Horseguards Hotel in Westminster, a wonderful location for a lovely old hotel with lots of art. Our room was nice–until, several days into our stay, sewage backed up into the bathtub. We were moved to another room with a view of the Thames but a leaky shower. That was quickly repaired, but the problems caused our hotel stay to seem not quite so special.

Afternoon tea at our hotel upon arrival

We arrived in London, checked into the hotel, and proceeded to: enjoy afternoon tea with a glass of Champagne; visit the National Gallery; walk to the Savoy Hotel for cocktails; and enjoy (well, Phil enjoyed his; me not so much) our first pub meal.

Klimt portrait at the National Gallery

By the way, one of our favorite things to do in large cities is have a cocktail at places we could never afford to stay or shop at. On this trip we lifted a glass at the Savoy, Raffles at the OWO, the Baccarat Bar at Harrod’s, and the Ritz. Try it!

Near our hotel

The next morning after coffee, we boarded a double decker hop-on-hop-off tour bus. The recorded patter was silly, but we got a good overview of the city, which we hadn’t really visited in over 20 years. We hopped off near the Tower of London to board a boat for a cruise back up the Thames. Soon I heard a familiar refrain from Phil: “Let’s go have a cocktail!” We headed to Raffles at the OWO, just across from our hotel, where we enjoyed a cocktail, great atmosphere, and delightful conversation with our server.

Inspiring resale shop spied on one of our many walks

Then it was time for dinner. We couldn’t visit London without having Indian food, so I searched online and found Maharaja of India, a lovely but hot and crowded restaurant where we enjoyed our first Indian restaurant meal since moving to France.

I marveled at the beautiful napkin rings at the restaurant.

We were excited about the next day, when at our daughter Amelia’s recommendation we had booked a walking gourmet tour of the Camden Town markets.

Pick up your order here! Camden Market

Our guide, Tom King, was fun and knowledgeable, and the other guests were good company. We sampled birria tacos, Yorkshire burritos, an apple crumble to die for, and artisinal gin, among other things. The tour was excellent, highly recommended!

Happy food tour guests

Camden Town owners paint their row houses in pastels; apparently it increases their value!

Camden Town has a well-earned reputation for its music scene, and we were shown many venues where now-world-famous performers got their start. Chief among them was Amy Winehouse. There is a lot of street art dedicated to her, and while tagging is also common, Tom told us the local rule: “You don’t tag Amy!!!”

My favorite Amy Winehouse street art

We walked off our feast, visiting the Victoria and Albert Museum, which has among its many wonders an astonishing, huge ceramics collection. Then we strolled down the street to Harrod’s, where we fought the crowds to buy a few food gifts. Exhausted, hot, tired, and sick of crowds, we stumbled upon the Baccarat Bar, in Harrods’ basement. A quiet, soothing oasis, this bar serves each beverage in a stunning Baccarat crystal glass. We toasted our success in finding a wonderful bar while judging the two couples at the next table, where one woman was bragging about “only paying 4500 pounds for TWO purses and a pair of shoes!” 

 

A gorgeous Cassigneul painting at the Stern Pissaro Gallery in St. James’s

After our cocktail, en route to the Tube, we stumbled upon a lovely Italian restaurant where we dined alfresco. Our two entrees and four glasses of wine set us back almost $200, although Giovanni’s is billed as modestly priced.

Big breakfasts are not really a thing in France, so we had to make sure we enjoyed them in London. We had a delicious breakfast at The Breakfast Club, where I indulged in the chicken & waffles–with bacon!!! Later in the week, Phil had a traditional full English breakfast, complete with beans. 

Phil’s full English

We were super hot and tired, so we had a bit of a rest in the hotel before heading to the theatre to see “Kathy & Stella Solve a Murder,” the most riotous, happy, moving, delightful musical I’ve ever seen. Here’s a link to the trailer. Seriously, if you ever get a chance to see it, don’t miss it!

It’s a small theatre, so there’s not a bad seat in the house–but our seats were great!

After laughing ourselves silly (and shedding a tiny tear), we headed out to the Ritz for a cocktail. The doorman told Phil he might not be admitted wearing trainers, but we were lucky and scored seats at the bar, where we could watch the amazing bartenders create cocktails that were works of art (They even brand their giant ice cubes with the logo!). At our bartender’s recommendation, we then enjoyed a fabulous tasting menu dinner (with wine pairings, of course) at the Sexy Fish, a beautiful restaurant where even the staff uniforms are gorgeous.

We averaged 15-20,000 steps each day of our London trip, so the next morning we were eager to have a break: a driving tour to Oxford and the Cotswolds. This full-day tour for 16 guests (in an air-conditioned mini-bus!) involved a lot of driving, with lovely scenery. We visited two Cotswold villages, both quaint and beautiful, but also hot and full of tourists. 

Beautiful Cotswolds village home

Our tour guide told us that residents had complained about non-English speaking tourists who would walk into their homes and sit down, thinking they were in a restaurant, not someone’s private home!

Then we headed back toward Oxford, also crowded and hot, but fascinating. We shared a burger at Turf Tavern, which dates from 1381 and was a favorite of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, among many other stars.

Radcliffe Square in Oxford

We wandered the streets, marveling at the architecture and thinking about our three favorite British detective series, “Inspector Morse,” “Lewis,” and “Endeavor.” We didn’t witness any murders but were not disappointed by Oxford. When we returned to Victoria Station, we wandered through Belgravia before ducking into Ganymede, a pretty little restaurant serving Sunday roast, which is a must-do in London. We both opted for the rolled & stuffed pork belly, which seemed like a good idea at the time but was really, really rich.

The next day, our last full day in London, we had tickets to tour Westminster Abbey. I deliberately chose a date and time with lots of availability, thinking it wouldn’t be as crowded as the day we tried unsuccessfully to buy tickets at the gate. I was wrong. The crowds were horrible–and it was still super hot! I got my toe stepped on, my glasses bumped by an elbow, and my head tapped by someone’s phone. We made our way quickly through and hope to return sometime–off-season!

 

I couldn’t even get a photo of Chaucher’s tomb without some random guy’s hand photobombing it!

After cooling off back in the room, we showered and got ready for the big event: Cabaret! I had splurged on a table in the second row, with a “gourmet” dinner and a bottle of Champagne included. Standing in line to enter the Kit Kat Club (which was just around the corner from our hotel), we heard someone call out to us. It was Tom, our Camden tour guide! I guess it’s a small world, even in London.

The Emcee

The immersive experience was astonishing (although, again, super crowded). Our table had a phone on it, just like we see in old movies, Imagine our surprise when it rang! One of the dancers called us to chat before the show began. And the show was wonderful (although the gourmet dinner turned out to be a bento box). The whole experience was poignant, memorable, and very entertaining.

The next day, after checking out of the hotel, we headed to the Parlour, at the Great Scotland Yard Hotel just around the corner from our hotel. I’d been curious about their afternoon tea, and it turned out to be a highlight of the trip. We opted for the unlimited Champage tea, and because it was so hot, we asked for our tea to be served iced. It was wonderful! Three courses, all delicious, and bottomless Veuve Cliquot, our favorite Champagne.

As we left The Parlour, we spotted this rhinoceros chair, so I made Phil pose in it.

And then we headed to the Courtyard at Gatwick for a quick sleep before our 7am flight home. It was a wonderful trip that we won’t forget. The only down side, other than heat and crowds, was that we didn’t get to see our friends Jane and Bernie in Chichester because they both got Covid. They’re fine now, back home in the U.S.

We are so fortunate to be able to travel, and while this trip was a budget buster, it was worth it! Well, maybe not the hotel/bathtub sewage. Now we’re wrapping up August, back in our French lessons, and looking forward to our road trip to Switzerland next month. Stay tuned!

One last painting, a Renoir at the National Gallery

 

no lie, july was busy!

So. Much. Fun.

July started out with a bang, as our dear friends Danny & Lynn arrived for a visit. They were our first friends in Wimberley, where Danny is an amazing artist and Lynn is a skilled golfer. They stayed at the apartment hotel just across the street from us, which gave them a bit of room and privacy. For their first evening, I made dinner: peach caprese salad, veal piccata with polenta, and a clafoutis for dessert. 

Lynn & Danny in front of the Fountain of the Three Graces, at la Place de la Comédie

The next morning after coffee and pastries, we visited our neighborhood farmers’ market before heading to the brocante (weekly flea market). Alas, no brocante that day–but we happened to meet a lovely English couple who spend weeks at a time in their Montpellier apartment near the train station. Phil and I ended up meeting them for cocktails the evening before they returned home to northern England, and we look forward to seeing Eileen and Graeme on their next visit.

Sunday farmers’ market

We strolled through the Jardin des Plantes, the oldest botanical garden in France, which is still used for research, before enjoying lunch at Broc Cafe, one of our favorite Sunday destinations. Phil and I had dance performance tickets that evening, so Lynn and Danny explored on their own. Ice cream may or may not have been involved.

Ice cream here is so pretty!

One morning when Phil and I didn’t have French lessons, we all set out for Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert, a medieval village known for its Unesco World Heritage Site, le Pont Diable, or Devil’s Bridge. You can read about it and its legend in the link. On route, we spied a sign: “Site Prehistorique.” Of course, we had to investigate. After following a progressively rougher and skinnier road, we hiked up to the site, which was unfortunately closed, so all we could do was walk the perimeter. Next time!

This village existed around 2700 years ago!

As we drove out, we spotted a small sign advertising ceramics. Another detour! This path led to a compound with marvelous, bigger-than-lifesized sculptures of fanciful animals. After calling “Allo?”several times, I was rewarded when a tiny woman came out. “On cherche la ceramiciste,” I said. “C’est moi,” Martine replied, and she led us to the studio she shares with husband Dom.  They do not speak English, so I translated (badly) as Danny purchased a beautiful bowl (They don’t take credit cards, so without cash Phil and I were unable to buy anything). We admired some pieces in the “damaged” section, and Martine and Dom let each couple choose one as a gift. 

Our beautiful “mistake,” a gift from Martine and Dom

We finally made it to Saint Guihelm, after a LONG detour for road work, and after squeezing the car through the tiniest street I’ve seen, we enjoyed an al fresco lunch with several cats. Then, after visiting the abbey, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and of course the famous bridge, where a couple of young men terrified us by climbing up the gorge, we headed home.

The cloister at the abbey, next to the museum explaining its history

Gorge climbers. Lynn and I were terrified!

We were eager for Danny and Lynn to meet some of our Montpellier friends, so we invited two other couples to join us for dinner chez Shroyer. The menu: vichysoisse, morel chicken with pasta, and peach cobbler (the recipe from my Wild Woman Linda Goldenstern’s mom, Irma!). We enjoyed lemon martinis and nibbles on the terrace, followed by dinner inside. I was too busy having fun to take any photos!

The next day was July 4, a special day for us because it’s our daughter’s birthday (also our niece’s!). It was made even more special by the Chicago hot dog party hosted by our friends Dave and Sue! Again, I was having too much fun to remember to take photos.

Our friends left with fun memories, and we enjoyed the last dance performance of the Montpellier dance festival, a wonderful movie night with friends Jana and Martin, and a couple of fun times with other friends, before the big event: Quatorze Juillet, AKA Bastille Day! Our friends Lloyd and Bob had invited us to a party, and their terrace was just yards from the fireworks launch site. The fireworks felt as if they were coming right at our heads!

No photo could do justice to this amazing sight!

Then it was time to prepare for my big event: a trip to Arkansas for the wedding of Sydney and Sean. Sydney’s mom is my bestie Beth, and I’ve known Syd since she was born, so this was a very special trip. I had two close connections, the one in Atlanta caused by a bit of a backup in baggage claim.

There were hundreds of bags stuck on the belt, stopping it and making everyone angry!

Three flights later, I arrived in Tulsa at midnight and was chauffeured by Beth’s DIL Robby and granddaughter Jocelyn. The next morning we were all busy organizing, packing, and chasing Beth’s granddaughters Cora and Maeve.

Flower girls, Maeve and Cora

We arrived in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, and checked into the Airbnb Beth had booked. It was a carriage house, and we slept in horse stalls. No, really!

I had the middle stall.

Then we got to work. We made all the flower arrangements and boutonnières, assembled the umbrellas (intended for sun, but used for a sprinkling of rain during the ceremony), ran errands, and chased granddaughters. The wedding was held at the Crescent Hotel (which is haunted), a beautiful mountain retreat in the charming village.

Junior bridesmaid Jossy with a wedding umbrella

Being a long-time family friend, as well as a former wedding consultant, I was drafted to be the wedding coordinator. The rehearsal went well, and after the rehearsal dinner Beth and I returned to our carriage house, where the youngsters had spent the evening with pizza and young adult supervision. 

The carriage house was a bit of a mess after all the kids left!

The day of the wedding was too busy for me to take photos, but it was lovely. Gorgeous bride, fabulous family, lovely ceremony, and a bit of rain to sweeten the day. One special moment for me: when I pinned a boutonnière on Bronce, the bride’s brother, he reminded me that I’d done the same when he married Robby 13 years ago.

Bronce and the bride, with beautiful Beth in the background

Sean and Syd, the happy couple

The reception was wonderful, and I got to catch up with friends-who-are-family, watch the festivities, munch delicious food (taco bar! wedding cake!), dance a little, and finally SIT!

Reception joy

But wait, there’s more! After the reception, as we were winding down at the carriage house, Syd, who is a director and producer, got a text message. She had just won not one, but TWO EMMYS!!! She was awarded for two documentaries, “The Ancient Game of Stickball” and “Chickasaw Warriors.” 

This was taken after the Emmys arrived.

The next morning after breakfast, I borrowed Syd’s car to make a quick visit to my brother and sister-in-law, who live nearby. It was too short but so great to see them both! 

Lea, Sandy, and Larry

We had two more nights in Tulsa, and on the last evening, after everyone had left, Beth and I enjoyed a quiet dinner (pasta with tomatoes from Lea’s garden and basil from Beth’s), reflecting on the wedding, but also on our 53-year friendship. I’m so very luck to have this treasure of a friend.

And then it was time to come home. Phil and I missed each other (although our friends kept him entertained and fed during my absence), and it was lovely to be home and back in our routine. The last few days have been blessedly quiet (watching the amazing Jeux Olympiques opening ceremony, bingeing the “Alice Nevers” detective series, cooking, and sleeping!), and I am very happy to be home.

A wonderful wedding. A wonderful couple.