Art in Aix

The Roamers pause their time-out for a trip to Aix-en-Provence

Welp, we couldn’t quite make it a whole month without entertaining or travel! On Friday we celebrated the break in the canicules (heat waves) with petanque and dinner in our garden. Friends Ann-lii, Frederick, Jo, and Dennis joined us for a wonderful evening.

Petanque without sweating!

The next morning we caught a train for Aix-en-Provence, a wonderful city I’d first discovered reading MFK Fisher (my favorite writer), which we’d visited on our first trip to France in 1993. It’s changed a bit since then (so have we!), and we couldn’t wait to explore. Our first stop after checking in to our hotel was, of course, lunch, followed by a visit to the Hotel de Caumont, a renowned art museum.

Art exhibit in our hotel

Hotel de Caumont

The catalyst for our trip was a Raoul Dufy painting I saw on Facebook. Unfamiliar with his work, I did a little research and found that there was a rare exhibition of his work in Aix, which is about three hours away by train. Off we went!

The painting that inspired our trip

Located in an aristocratic mansion that is an art exhibit in itself, the Hotel de Caumont displayed room upon room of Dufy paintings. We spent well over two hours there.

Several of my favorites from the Dufy exhibit

While at the Caumont we were able to see a couple of rooms that have been restored to their original splendor. The bedroom below overlooks the courtyard garden.

Bedroom

Courtyard garden

We strolled back to the hotel via the famous Cours Mirabeau, a wide thoroughfare designed in the 17th century. It’s a thriving, plane-tree-lined street offering plenty of cafes, bars, and shops.

Fountain at the Cours Mirabeau

Then it was back to the hotel for a rest before dinner. Phil decided to enjoy an adult beverage, which was pricey (17 euros!) but delicious. Yes, he gave me a sip.

17 euro cocktail!

For dinner, we chose a restaurant mentioned in the Michelin guide, Les Inseparables. Nestled in a lovely courtyard surrounded by trees, we enjoyed the degustation menu and an excellent bottle of wine. As in virtually ever restaurant in France, American music was playing.

 

Lobster tartare

My favorite: interpretation of tarte citron

The next morning we set out in search of coffee on the Cours Mirabeau. First we stopped to greet the sculpture of Cezanne, which had unfortunately been defaced with paint.

Cezanne

As we paused to take a picture, we heard music, then someone on a loudspeaker. Naturally, we (I) had to investigate. Turns out it was a ceremony honoring the 78th anniversary of La Liberation. The whole thing was very moving. After the speech (I couldn’t understand it well, but what I could get was wonderful) and the laying of flowers at the memorial, we heard the Chant des Partisans., the haunting hymn of the Resistance, followed by a moment of silence. Then we were astonished to hear the U.S. National Anthem, honoring our country’s part in liberating France. Finally, La Marseillaise was played. We were not the only bystanders wiping tears away.

Tribute of flowers

The flowers were laid at the monument des morts, which is inscribed “Aix-en-Provence a ses enfants morts pour La Patrie“–“Aix-en-Provence for its children who died for the country.” The ceremony was followed by a parade.

Tank in the parade

After the parade and lunch, we headed to another museum, the Musée Granet. We wanted to see some of the work of native son Paul Cezanne, and to learn more about his role in the evolution from impressionism to cubism.

Some of Cezanne’s works

Our admission to the Musée Granet included a ticket to their modern art museum, La Chapelle des Pénitants Blancs, “the chapel of the white penitants.” This beautiful 17th century building houses the personal collection of Swiss painter Jean Planque, who befriended many of the artists whose work he acquired. He wasn’t wealthy, but he had a keen eye for discovering great painters before they became known. We saw amazing works by Picasso, Braques, Degas, Klee, and Cezanne, as well as Planque’s own work.

A Bonnard that I loved

I don’t remember ever seeing so many Picasso paintings in one place before–and one of them was inscribed to Planque.

This beautiful painting was signed to Planque by Picasso, his close friend.

 

The three-story former chapel that housed these paintings was spectacular. The renovation retained the beautiful arched ceilings and other features but created a perfect neutral setting for these modern paintings.

View from the second of three floors in the museum

Beautiful work by Claude Garache

En route to our last museum stop, Gallifet, we encountered a window box cat, whom I befriended. It was both decorative and ready for petting!

Mon ami, le chat

On an earlier stroll we had noticed a tiny art gallery attached to a courtyard restaurant. It was closed, but we decided to return to check it out. I was fascinated by the art, which appeared to be focused on kitchens and interiors. So on Sunday after lunch we returned. The scene made us wish we’d come for lunch!

The Gallifet courtyard restaurant

The exhibit was tiny but beautiful. In the middle of the room was a table draped with a dyed and embroidered cloth, displaying ceramics, and the walls were covered with small paintings of interiors. 

I loved this table!

Later I learned that this wasn’t even the exhibit of the museum! I guess it was just an adjunct to the restaurant. Next time we’ll have to see the entire thing–and dine there!

One of the delightful interior paintings

On our way back to the hotel, we ran into Alfred Hitchcock at a cinema. Orson Welles was on the other side of the door, but he did not allow photographs.

Alfred Hitchcock holding up the wall at the cinema

We also spotted two chefs standing at their windows

Our last sight on the way back was the memorial to the massacred Armenians. I didn’t even know about this before seeing this amazing monument.

Translation: “To the Two Million Armenians Massacred by the Turks during the first genocide of the 20th century, 1894-1922”

And then it was time to go home. We were amazed by how much we had been able to pack into just over 24 hours, but there is so much more to see in Aix-en-Provence. We’ll definitely be back!

 

Quiet.

The Roamers slow down

Several people have commented recently that they don’t know how we have the energy to do so much–traveling, hosting, exploring, studying French, and generally staying so very busy. Well, we finally realized that it was time to slow down a bit! After our last house guests left, we decided to take the month of August as a break, and so far we’ve done just that!

It’s been very quiet chez Shroyer, partly because of our resolve to slow down and partly because of the canicule, aka HEAT WAVE. It’s been in the high 90s and low 100s daily for several weeks. Without a car, we depend on our feet and public transportation, and the latter has been quite unreliable due to summer construction/expansion projects. I’ve grown tired of taking three showers a day, so we’ve stayed inside much more than usual.

As I mentioned in the last post, we attended a soirée at the end of July, in the courtyard of a Lebanese restaurant. It was HOT but we had a great evening. We are so grateful for our circle of friends in Montpellier!

Hot but fun evening with (mostly) Americans in Montpellier

About all that walking: we ordered an electric car, a Hyundai Kona, which was supposed to be delivered in July. In July it was delayed until August, and now it’s delayed until mid-September. We’ll be out of the country in September, so the earliest we can get it now will be October. But we’re really looking forward to (a) having a car again, and (b) learning how to be electric car people.

The car we ordered

I’ve been reading a lot, mostly fluff/ fun/forgettable novels, but this week I had a special treat: I read the debut mystery novel by my dear friend and Wild Woman Susan Steiner. Susan was one of my best friends in high school, and I’ve always admired her quirky creativity, sense of humor, and comfort in her own skin. Her novel, Murder by Manuscript, is fascinating–not only is it a great read, but the principal characters are based on her grandchildren as she imagines them as adults. What a concept!

Susan’s book: highly recommended!

Another thing I’ve done during this time-out is expand my earring collection. You may recall that our daughter is a jewelry designer whose company is called Mellie Earrings. I spent two days with her in July, “helping”at the fabulous outdoor market in Stockholm, and I bought a few items there. But when I saw she was having a “flash” sale, I couldn’t resist a bit more shopping. I ordered the Mystery Box, which consists of three pairs of earrings that Mellie intuitively selects. I think she nailed it!

My Mellie Earrings Mystery Box!

In addition to the market and her website, she also has an Etsy shop. Now I have my eye on these beautiful Gaia earrings!

And that’s about it for August-to-date. We’re about to head out for our weekly coffee meetup with fellow English speakers. Several of us usually stay until lunchtime and then walk to an outdoor cafe for lunch, after which I’ll walk over to my French class. We are definitely living the sweet life in France!

The Roamers: not roaming this month.

Bye-bye, July

Time speeds up for the Roamers

After returning from our Stockholm trip and hosting a little dinner party, we deliberately slowed things down a bit. We were fatigued from so much travel, so much company! When I finally got a bit stir-crazy, we decided to visit the Montpellier aquarium, Planet Ocean Montpellier. It was remarkable!

Tiny sea creatures greeted us

The exhibits were well done and varied. We didn’t take time to read all the information, as the place was crowded with tons of families and kids. One tiny girl rushed over and hugged my legs–but when she looked up and saw I wasn’t her mommy, she was horrified! Her mom giggled with me as she comforted her disconcerted daughter.

One of the permanent residents

When our son Grayson was little, he was obsessed with penguins. He had a stuffed penguin whose beak he’d chewed to bits, and for a long time we gifted him with penguins of all sorts (except live penguines. We didn’t give him any of those). We still think of him every time we see a penguin, so at the aquarium he was with us in spirit!

Penguins! Lots of them! A bit stinky!

We enjoyed the aquarium and recommend a visit there. As a bonus, they have a couple of funhouse mirrors, probably designed to entertain kiddos. We loved the one that made us look thin!

The only way we’ll look skinny!

One of our favorite things to do on Sundays is visit the brocante (flea market) at the Promenade de Peyrou. I never tire of seeing the interesting, odd things people are selling there. 

This hat is for sale!

Sometimes bizarre, sometimes charming, often compelling, the wares of the vendors at the brocante vary from china/crystal/silver to vintage clothing, from original artwork to furniture, from toys to treasures. We’ve made a few purchases but mostly we just enjoy browsing and people-watching.

Delightful doll clothes

After our self-imposed break from living at breakneck speed, we greeted house guests Gayla and Trish, college friends of Phil’s. He and Gayla, an amazing artist, worked together and have stayed close, but he hadn’t seen Trish, who lives in New Jersey, in years, and I’d never even met her.

Gayla showing her work at a shop in Oklahoma

They arrived after spending a few days in Paris, and we were eager to show them our beautiful city.

Trish, Gayla, and Phil, waiting for le bus

The evening they arrived, we joined other friends for an organ concert at the Cathédral Saint-Pierre de Montpellier, which has the most beautiful organ I’ve ever seen. Afterwards, our group of eight strolled to la Coquille for a lovely outdoor dinner. 

Light show at the organ concert, courtesy of the stained glass windows

It was a great first night. The next morning we visited the Les Arceaux marché, a wonderful organic outdoor market where we stocked up on fresh fruits and vegetables.

Olives at the marché

Phil schlepped our purchases home while I took Gayla and Trish to see the Arc de Triomphe and the statue of Louis XIV on his horse at the nearby Promenade de Peyrou. 

 

A friendly tree on our path; wonder who lives in there?

Gayla, who had felt tired all morning (we all assumed it was the pace of travel), ran out of steam, so we headed home to rest. Unfortunately, she tested positive for Covid. We all worked to make the best of the situation, with Gayla isolating in the guest room, Trish “sleeping”on the living room sofa, and all of us staying in for the required three days until we could test. After testing negative, Trish, Phil, and I were able to get out (wearing masks inside). We took Trish to the brocante, where she bought gifts (including a gorgeous set of champagne flutes for us!).

Brocante vendors enjoying an elegant lunch

Trish trained as an artist and has resumed her creative work, working in pastels. She was excited to visit the Jardin des Plantes, a botanical garden founded in 1593. It’s a beautiful, peaceful place where she spent a day sketching.

Water lilies at Jardin des Plantes

On the last day of their visit, with Gayla cleared to get out, I took Trish and Gayla on a walking tour of the beautiful medieval pedestrian streets of Montpellier. We poked into shops where they bought souvenirs and gifts before meeting Phil at le Kiosk Fabre, the outdoor cafe near the famed Musée Fabre. After lunch I headed home for a video call with friend and former colleague Sally, while Phil took our guests to the Fabre, which they both loved. That evening, their last night with us, we headed back into lÉcusson for drinks and dinner at our favorite bar, Smash Bar. On the way, of course we had to peek into the shop windows

Is this the bed from “The Princess and the Pea”?

We had a delightful dinner outside, with the usual exceptional hosting from the family who run Smash Bar. After dinner we strolled around the neighborhood before heading home.

Happy, healthy diners!

The next morning we said goodbye to our friends and settled in to relax for the weekend. I’ll be honest: I didn’t even get out of my pajamas until Saturday, when it was time to head to our second monthly dinner soirée. Facebook group Americans in Montpellier organizes it, with sponsorship from Renestance, the company that helped–and continues to help–us move to France. I’m a guest blogger for Renestance, and you can see all of their blogs, including mine, here. 

The second lovely dinner soirëe

So that’s a wrap for July! After so much travel, house guests, and HEAT, we’re looking forward to a quiet August before we head to the U.S. in September. Time to get back into a daily routine!

 

 

 

 

Family

Lucky Roamers!

We are so grateful for our wonderful family–our own family, our “family by choice,” lovely in-laws, and our ever-widening social circle. These connections are the best thing in our lives, and our new friends in France made us feel at home almost immediately. 

 

New friends at a recent outdoor dinner event

In late June Nancy and Tom spent a few days with us. They’re our son-in-law’s parents, so that makes us–family! We’ve often said that we’d be friends with them even if we weren’t related; how lucky is that?!

Nancy and Tom at an outdoor cafe before our museum visit

We set a nice pace for their visit: not too much walking (it was HOT!), a moderate amount of sightseeing, and plenty of time to catch up at home over cocktails and dinner. Oh, and petanque in our garden!

Nancy was the petanque champion

We enjoyed roaming the Montpellier streets, visiting the Musee Fabre, and seeing a wonderful photographic exhibit of Peter Lindbergh’s work (he’s the fashion photographer discovered by Anna Wintour who pioneered photos featuring the models, not just the clothes). The morning after Tom and Nancy left, it was our turn to travel: to Stockholm! Our daughter and her husband live there, and we hadn’t seen them since October. Our flight was delayed in Montpellier, but we still had plenty of time at the airport in Paris to grab a bite and listen to a random piano concert.

This traveler entertained us

We finally arrived in Stockholm, and our kids joined us at the hotel for a late dinner. By the way, I highly recommend the Marriott in Stockholm! Lovely room, bountiful breakfast buffet included, and a great location close to parks and public transportation. 

Our wonderful kids

The next morning I was treated to something I’d been looking forward to for months: spending the day with Amelia at the market! She is a jewelry designer, and one of her outlets is an outdoor market that runs from late spring through early fall. It was wonderful to hang out with her at her booth, enjoy the gorgeous weather, try out the food trucks, meet some of her friends, and watch her in action! I may or may not have done a bit of shopping. . .

There was a bit less merchandise after my shopping spree

We were so excited to see the kids’ apartment, which they bought over two years ago, in the “before times.” It’s on the top floor of the building, in a lush residential area, and they have put their stamp on it–great wall colors, plenty of memorabilia, and their unique, artsy vibe. We loved it!

Indian takeout at the kids’ apartment

There was a special reason for the timing of our visit: our daughter’s July 4 birthday! She laid out how she would like to spend it, and that’s exactly what we did: brunch by Nic, featuring eggs benedict and his home-made from scratch English muffins, along with mimosas by Phil. Then presents, followed by naps and video games. Next up was a video visit with son Grayson and his daughter, aka the cutest baby in the world. Soon it was time to start making dinner (me) and birthday cupcakes (Nic). Phil served up a signature cocktail to sustain our labors. I made twice-baked potatoes and Caesar salad, and Nic made chocolate cupcakes with rose hip buttercream frosting. It was such fun to cook together, and our dinner was just what Amelia wanted! We had so much fun I forgot to take any pictures.

After the market on Saturday and Sunday and our birthday celebration on Monday, our little group was free to explore. We used public transportation, which usually offered a weird, interesting, or artistic experience. The signs above the escalators cracked me up: I think the one on the right says “UP” and the one on the left says “NOT UP.”

Up and Not Up

We had visited the kids in Stockholm once before, so on this trip we didn’t do a lot of touristy things. Walking the streets, I was reminded how beautiful this city is. Flowers were everywhere, the buildings were interesting, and the people-watching was superb.

Lots of flowers on the sidewalks

One day we decided to visit a couple of museums. Most of Stockholm’s museums are clustered in one neighborhood, near the water, in a beautiful park-like area. We had visited one or two of them on our last trip, so this time we did a couple of new ones

A historic building in the museum district

We decided to hit the ABBA museum first. Photos weren’t allowed, so you’ll have to trust that it was a cool experience. My favorite thing, at the end of the tour, was the collection of costumes. Simply amazing to see them close up! And, of course, the music. By the time we finished we were hungry, and some of us, who will not be named, were beginning to feel a bit hangry. After a couple of misses (“you can only eat here if you have a museum ticket” and “we’re closed”), we finally found an open restaurant by the boats, where we enjoyed adult beverages and a tapas lunch.

Hanger averted

After lunch we visited the spirits museum. It was fascinating to learn about the history and production of spirits in Sweden. And yes, they did offer a tasting after the tour.

Part of the special exhibition on gin

We spent more time touring around, sampling Swedish foods (meatballs! potatoes! herring!), and simply enjoying our time together. I can’t wait to go back and see more.

The opera house, where we saw a piano recital on our previous visit

On our last evening, we strolled through a beautiful pedestrian neighborhood, looking at all the menus before deciding on a restaurant for dinner. We had a wonderful time–oysters, fois gras, excellent wines, and more!

The guys at dinner

It was a perfect evening, and we headed back to the hotel for our last night. The kids joined us for breakfast the next morning and saw us off to the airport. I’ll admit to being very sad to leave–but we’ll see them again soon, no later than October.

Mommy and Daughter

We made it home (our luggage decided to extent the trip by an extra day!), and I recovered from my sadness in time to enjoy our weekly coffee date with other English speakers, followed by lunch and my French class. It was nice to settle back into our routine after so much travel. And we closed out the week with a little dinner party! Our friend Gwen was back on her feet after struggling with knee problems, so we had to celebrate!

Dinner party

We are so very fortunate to have all these wonderful people–family and friends–in our lives! We are two lucky Roamers, for sure.

fun with friends

Barcelona! Mozart! Petanque!

We were excited to make our first trip to Barcelona, especially since we were meeting bestie Joni and her husband Scott, who married last October. The train ride from Montpellier to Barcelona, just three hours, was pleasant, on time, and offered beautiful scenery. We arrived at our hotel, grabbed some lunch, and after Scott finished a couple of work calls we met up for a welcome cocktail at the rooftop bar of our hotel.

Scott, Joni, and Phil atop the roof

At our daughter’s advice, we booked a hotel very close to the Sagrada Familia, the famous and unfinished Gaudi masterpiece. How amazing to see the view from the rooftop bar!

What a view!

Sangria for all!

We had a lovely seafood dinner that evening at a now-forgotten restaurant Scott found. Paella! It was a long hike, and my reward for wearing new sandals was blisters–but it was worth it. The next morning we headed out for our self-guided audio tour of the Sagrada Familia. What a spectacular work of art!

In a nearby chocolatier window, a chocolate Sagrada Famlia. Wow!

I won’t even post my pictures of the Sagrada Familia, because there are so many better ones online. After our tour, we bought tickets for the hop-on, hop-off bus tour to see more of Barcelona. We stopped for lunch (a long climb up a very steep hill) at an outdoor cafe. As we waited for our food, a street parade arrived, complete with a drum band, effigies, and many marchers.

Not sure what this was about, but it was fascinating!

The parade stopped next to our restaurant, and I noticed a group wearing matching shirts. Curious, I walked over to see this group building a human tower! It was fascinating to see their climbing technique–until the young woman on top fell to the ground. An ambulance picked her up, and we are still hoping that she was ok.

I took this picture just before she fell.

That afternoon we had a walking tour of the gothic quarter and surrounding neighborhoods, and we came upon an odd sculpture. Our guide explained that this represents a unique Catalan sport, Castell (human castle building), which began in the 18th century. It turns out that what we had experienced at lunch was Castellers!

“Castellers” sculpture

Our walking tour focused on architecture and history, and it was excellent. We learned a lot, but I retained very little. We saw the “people’s church,” a lovely but not extravagent Gothic church with a several-year waiting list for weddings, as well as the “cathedral,” much more sumptuous but less popular.

Catedral de Barcelona

We also visited a “secret square” that was peaceful and beautiful–until our guide told us its story. During the Spanish civil war, Franco’s air force dropped a bomb here, killing 30 children living in the orphanage (the building you see on the right). As people came out to help, a second bomb was dropped, killing twelve more people.

Peaceful square with a dark history

That evening we had reservations at Caelis, a Michelin starred restaurant recommended by Montpellier friends Bobby and Tracey. Phil and I had decided to postpone our 41st anniversary dinner to celebrate here, and what a celebration it was!

Belated anniversary couple

From the moment we arrived, we were treated like VIPs. Everything about this restaurant was exceptional, starting with the table settings.

 

What a cool table! I want these plates.

We opted for the “Menu Terre et Mer” degustation tasting. It was SIXTEEN different dishes!!! Plus, of course, wine pairings.

Zucchini blossom course

Beef like we’d never had before

Dessert? I think so.

The dinner lasted over four hours, and we all agreed it was unforgettable. Pricey, but worth it for such an exceptional experience.

Happy, full, and joyful

The next morning we were off to a castle! This castle wine tour started badly: the van that picked us up had a broken air conditioner. The drive was well over an hour in 90+ degree weather, with no windows except in the front seat, and we were all miserable! We arrived cranky and ready to write bad reviews, but all that quickly changed upon arrival.

View from the castle

Photographer Phil in front of the castle

Castell de Pontons, which has been in our host’s family since 1336, was amazing. Fernando, our host, is a trained sommelier and interior designer who is dedicated to bringing the castle up to its potential. They produce wine (red, white, and sparkling), olive oil, honey, and essential oils, along with their garden produce. 

Beautiful tablescape in the front room of the castle

The experience started with a sensory experiment. Fernando foraged various herbs and had us guess what each one was. He went on to give us a tour of the garden, grounds, and vineyard, where we learned about the terroir of this mountainous wine region.

Castle kitchen

Back inside (where it was cool!), we visited the wine cellar (slightly scary) before heading upstairs for our tasting and tapas lunch.

I loved all the charming tablescapes and decor features!

But wait, there’s more! After lunch and wine, Albert, who lives on the property and creates essential oils, provided another sensory experience.

A very creative DIY chandelier by Fernando

With Albert’s guidance, we sniffed each essential oil, and then we selected our two favorites, rubbed them on our hands, and shared a chime bowl meditation. We left with wine, olive oil, honey, and essential oils to enjoy at home. The drive back was just as miserable as the drive there, but we were much, much happier!

We had just a short rest and quick shower before our next adventure, a tapas crawl. Five couples met our guide in a shady square, from where we proceeded to four different tapas restaurants. 

Tapas with a great group of people!

Did I mention that each of the four stops came with a glass of wine? After the crawl, all ten of us were having so much fun that we decided to go for a nightcap.

Fun tapas group, possibly overserved

Another Gaudi building

The next day, after a final stroll and a temporary-farewell lunch with Joni and Scott, Phil and I took the train home. It was nice to sleep in our own bed, but the fun wasn’t over just yet. We met friends the next evening at Smash Bar before heading to Montpellier’s beautiful Gothic cathedral to hear Mozart’s Requiem. Performed by the Prague Opera and the Philharmonic Orchestra of the Czech Republic, it was an unforgettable music experience.

Full house for this extraordinary musical performance!

The next day Joni and Scott arrived to spend a few days with us in our beautiful city. Because of the heat wave, we didn’t explore as much as we’d wished, but we had a lovely time at home.

Playing petanque in our garden after things cooled off a bit

We did get out, visiting just a handful of sights and meeting friends for coffee and lunch. Joni and Scott loved Montpellier; think we could convince them to move here?

Joni and Scott in front of the Three Graces fountain in Place de la Comedie

On a particularly hot day we decided to visit the fabulous Musée Fabre, which has air conditioning! We only had time for the special exhibit, “Le Voyage en Italie de Louis Gauffier,” and we were not disappointed. 

One of my favorite paintings from the exhibit. The woman is chasing off a cat that stole her bird (probably meant for dinner).

We sent Joni and Scott on their way to Amsterdam and Paris with minimal sadness, as we’ll see them in Dallas in September. Later that afternoon, we met friends at the Promenade de Peyrou for petanque, followed by an apero at the lovely home of friends Ann-Li and Fredrick. We have to keep pinching ourselves to realize this is our life now–filled with travel, wonderful friends, and adventure. We are grateful indeed.

Statue of Louis IV, the “Sun King,” at the Promenade de Peyrou

a quick trip to bordeaux

Marriott free nights: use ’em or lose ’em!

We have been traveling a lot. So much, in fact, that we thought we’d take a break and stay home before the arrival of our first house guests in late May. However, I had two Marriott free nights expiring in June, and our only available dates to use them (retirement is BUSY!) were May 8-10. We chose Bordeaux (close enough for a two-night trip, a place we wanted to revisit, and offering an eligible Marriott property). We set off early Sunday morning for the train station.

We made it to Beziers before an unscheduled stop, due to the tragic death of a person who apparently jumped in front of another train. Our train was delayed three hours, and upon arrival in Bordeaux our tram was delayed 45 minutes due to an accident. Phil might want me to add that I walked us across the wrong bridge, causing another 30-minute delay. Hot, tired, and a bit shaken, we finally arrived at the Moxy, where we were greeted with a refreshing cold herbal tea shot. We quickly unpacked and headed to dinner atop the next-door Renaissance.

Sunset dinner: mediocre food, but the view!

The next morning we set out to explore this beautiful place. Bordeaux is a city of Haussman-style buildings, flower-filled parks along the river, and way too many interesting things to explore in two days. 

I was fascinated by the beautiful street lamps of Bordeaux

There were so many interesting things to see along our walk for coffee: monuments, fountains, intriguing shop windows, and historic sights. 

A peek into a floriste

One of four still-standing Bordeaux gates

Just a random beautiful door

We spent the morning strolling the city, stopping for a quick lunch at a salad chain before joining our St. Emilion wine tour group. Hosted by the knowledgeable Sonia, eight guests enjoyed a wonderful afternoon in this esteemed wine region.

Lovely grounds of the Chateau Chatelet

Grand Cru Classe

We enjoyed tastings at two wineries, one Grand Cru and one Grand Cru Classe, where we may or may not have bought wine to take home. We also explored the village of St.Emilion, home to only 300 people but visited by over a million each year.

The Roamers enjoying the view from St. Emilion

St. Emilion has a gorgeous church and cloister. During the French Revolution, Sonia explained, all the priests and nuns were forced to leave, but the cloister has been preserved and is still beautiful.

Cloister

One of the beautiful church altars

After the tour we stopped for a cocktail while we considered dinner options, which are quite limited in France on Mondays. We opted for BIG Bistro Girondin and outdoor seating, where we enjoyed a delicious meal and excellent people watching. We shared a wonderful and unusual appetizer, oefs parfait aux petits pois et chorizo, Phil had braised pork, and I had skate, we had a couple of glasses of wine each, and Phil had a caramelized pineapple dessert. The tab? $83.44.

The next morning we stored our bags at the hotel and walked to the oldest bakery in Bordeaux, Au Petrin Mosisagais, where owner Serge Combarieu still bakes traditional Gascon bread (we brought a loaf home!) in the original 1765 oven. We enjoyed a wonderful petit dejeuner there, facing the mural of Serge and his family.

Mural of the baker and his family

We watched Serge carefully place dough in the oven, which must always be kept hot, as we munched on his delicious bread and croissants. If you ever get to Bordeaux, this bakery is not to be missed!

The oven

After breakfast we strolled the city, enjoying window shopping and stopping for more people watching at a cafe before heading to the public garden. We watched a man feeding the ducks and geese, calling each by name and feeding them from his hands.

Ducklings!

We didn’t have time to fully explore the park, so it’s on our list for the next visit. It’s beautiful, interesting, and a great place to just stop and listen to the sounds of nature. 

Statue of Juno overlooking the pond

Why didn’t we have time? Because we had booked a unique lunch experience: Demystifying Duck! Hoted by the fascinating Kim Freeman in her lovely house, this was a hands-on cooking experience where I prepped as she prepared a special lunch featuring duck, a Bordeaux specialty. Kim is an American magazine editor, designer, and photo stylist who lived and worked in Paris and New York and now lives in Bordeaux. She hosts Airbnb guests, leads food and market tours for cruise passengers, and hosts a variety of culinary experiences in her home and garden.

Lunch!

Our lunch featured duck breast with apples and pears, Thai black rice with leeks and toasted hazelnuts, a tomato salad with duck crisps, and berries with cream for dessert. Everything was delectable, matched only by the fascinating conversation. We left feeling that we’d made a new friend!

Happy Roamers, photo by Kim

And then it was time to go. We left Bordeaux with wonderful memories and plans to return. We continue to be gobsmacked by our good fortune and have to pinch ourselves; we are really living this life in France!

Wonderful words in the St. Emilion church: “All by love, nothing by force.”