One week in normandy

The Roamers explore the north

Phil has wanted to visit the WWII sites in Normandy for many years; in fact, one of his regrets is that he never had an opportunity to take his dad there. One December when we were in Paris with our kids, we rented a car and drove there, but by the time we arrived it was dusk and most museums were closed. We had planned a trip in July 2020, but of course that was cancelled due to COVID. Now that we’d been living in France almost ten months, it was time to go–and this time we would stay for a week to ensure plenty of time to see everything. 

Our Rouen hotel

We took the train through Paris to Rouen and checked in to a beautiful old hotel, l’Hotel de Bourgtherolde, where we enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast each morning. We arrived late in the afternoon, so we explored the neighborhood a bit, reading menus before deciding on a restaurant for dinner. The next day we spent exploring Rouen, particularly the gorgeous Musee des Beaux Arts and the famous Rouen Cathedral.

Renoir painting, “Girl Looking into a Mirror”

The museum featured a special exhibit of one of our favorite Italian painters, Caravaggio, focused on his large-scale, violent, and disturbing religious works. We also saw many works depicting Jeanne d’Arc, as well as an impressive number of Impressionist paintings.

After two and a half hours we were tired and hungry, so we headed out for lunch and a rest. We then set out for the cathedral, but along the way were mesmerized by the 16th centuray Palais de Justice. Rouen is a beautiful city with more than its share of amazing buildings.

Palais de Justice

Finally we made it to the cathedral. The night before our trip we had watched an episode of our favorite French murder mystery series, “Murder In. . .”  Each episode is filmed in a beautiful French location, and in a lucky accident the one we watched was “Murder in Rouen.” The murder and subsequent investigation centered on the cathedral, so we were especially charmed to see it in real life.

Rouen Cathedral

We’ve seen a lot of gorgeous cathedrals in Europe, but this one is truly amazing. It’s enormous, and it took some time to get even a cursory view of everything. I like to take a seat and soak in the mystery and beauty of these sacred spots.

Inside Rouen Cathredral

After another wonderful dinner (more on that later), we went to bed early, knowing we’d have a long, rainy drive in the dark the next morning. We had to meet our guide in Bayeux before 9:00. After searching many websites and reading dozens of reviews, I’d selected an Airbnb experience by Johann for our WWII all-day tour, and we were not disappointed. A native of Bayeux, Johann is a historian who had worked at the Louvre in Paris until deciding to return to his hometown. He restricts tours to four guests, so we were with another American couple (this New Jersey couple’s blended family included NINE children and two sets of twins!). While we saw all the usual sights, Johann’s tour was special because of  the off-the-beaten-path sites and stories he has discovered over the years.

One of many bunkers we visited

The experience was more emotionally wrenching than I’d even expected. So many young men–kids, really–died there. The stories of Omaha and Utah Beach made me realize what a logistical feat D-Day was. I hadn’t known about the tanks sinking, or the currents that caused errors in the landings, or how the Germans used their knowledge of farmers’ hedgerows to their advantage. 

The American Cemetery

But the most important takeaways for me were Johann’s stories of kindness, compassion, and humanity shown in this brutal time. For example, at the famous Sainte Mère d’Eglise (you’ve probably heard of it; it’s the church where a paratrooper got stuck on the steeple and hung there, playing dead, for three hours), we learned that a German soldier saw him and cut him down. He was captured–not mistreated!–but escaped several days later. Today a dummy is suspended from the steeple, the parachute waving in the breeze, to commemorate Steele’s heroism.

John Steele’s replica hangs from the steeple

We were taken to a tiny village of 56 people where Johann shared a story of kindness and humanity. An American doctor had taken over the small church to use as a hospital for wounded people–American soldiers, an injured girl, and German soldiers–only after he acquiesced to the priest’s demand that no weapons be taken into the church. A German soldier burst into the church, ready to kill everyone, when the priest stopped him and showed him that Germans were being cared for. The soldier dropped his gun and began helping. In that same church, a shell came through the ceiling and hit the floor tile–but didn’t detonate. A piece of debris hit the doctor who was performing surgery and knocked him down; he got up and continued the surgery. The broken tiles and dent in the floor are still visible, as are blood stains of the wounded on the pews.

The tiny village church where kindness prevailed

After the war, we were told, Americans came to the church and told the priest, “We broke it. We’ll fix it.” They were referring to the broken stained glass windows. Many of the replacement windows in this church and others include depictions of American soldiers. And the American doctor who performed surgery in the church? He visited frequently, stayed in touch with the young woman whose life he’d saved until his death, and at his request was buried in the small graveyard at the church.

One of the replacement windows featuring American soldiers, along with the Virgin Mary

By the end our our tour we were emotionally drained, and very glad that we’d booked a hotel in Bayeux for the night. Our guide had recommended a fabulous, tiny restaurant that rates in our top 25 lifetime meals. We highly recommend la Rapier for a memorable meal, outstanding service, and warm hospitality.

Bayoux monuments at sunset

 

The next day we saw the famous Bayeux tapestry, which depicts the events leading to the Norman conquest of England in 1066. Since I was an English major, that date was important to me, and it was fascinating to see the tapestry, which has been described as the earliest known example of propaganda!

One bit of the 70 meter long tapestry

That afternoon we drove back to Rouen, with the memory of an unforgettable experience in Bayeux and the WWII sites. The next day we’d planned something more upbeat–a day trip to beautiful Honfleur.

Omaha Beach. Deceptively peaceful.

We really didn’t do Honfleur justice. It was cold and wet (it rained every day of our trip), and frankly we were a bit tired. So we walked, took photos, and window shopped, stopping for a delightful lunch near the old harbor. That Vieux Bassin has been painted by many famous Impressionists, including Claude Monet and native son Eugène Boudin.

Vieux Bassin, or Old Harbor

Honfleur is in the Calvados region, named for the delicious apply brandy. We wanted to do a tasting, so we left Honfleur to visit the Calvados Experience, a Disneyesque museum/tasting venue/shopping extravaganza. The sole visitors for our English-language experience, we were taken to the entrance and directed to walk through each door when it opened. What we discovered was a multi-media interactive history of Normandy’s apple brandy, centered around the life and legend of Dominique Magloire, an 1800s innkeeper known for serving excellent calvados.

Video depicting Père Magloire serving his guests

The experience was fascinating, fun, and informative. At the end we were treated to an educational tasting, featuring the various types of calvados. And of course the exit took us through the boutique, where we selected one bottle for drinking and one for cooking (for many years I’ve made a chicken dish with apples and Calvados cream sauce. Delicious!). And our guide gifted us with a bottle of excellent cider.

This pile of apples looked real!

The next day we had reservations to visit Mont St. Michele, but at breakfast Phil confessed that instead of driving over three hours each way in the rain, he really just wanted to stay in Rouen. So we had a restful day, venturing over to the outdoor market for cheese, bread, tomatoes, and olives. We popped open the sparkling cider and had a picnic in our room!

Now begins the gourmet section of this post. That evening we had one of my all-time favorite dinners, at CanCan. After a gracious greeting, we were seated and given a heated stone to warm our hands–genius!

I didn’t want to give up my smooth round stone!

We enjoyed a delicious amuse-bouche that I’ve forgotten, followed by our chosen entrees (an entrée in France is an appetizer; the main meal–aka entree in America–is called le plat). I can’t remember what it was, but Phil had ordered something smoked. We were surprised when it arrived with a bed of what looked like hay on the side–until our waiter lit the hay on fire! He then covered it with a glass cloche as it smoked the contents. What a show!

Phil’s smoking appetizer

The meal was exceptional, with each course an interesting and delicious treat. My favorite was my chocolate dessert: “Cratière Choco-Caramelo à la Saveur d’une Tarte Citron Meringuée.” It arrived in a small dish on a large plate, with a disc of chocolate perched on top of the dish. The waiter poured something that looked like dry ice onto the plate below, and we watched the chocolate melt into the dish. Wonderful!

Chocolate melting into the dish

Not all of our meals were as showy, but everything we ate was delicious. The food of Normandy is the best we’ve ever had–from a tiny shop serving only soup and dessert, to several moderately priced places where we were greeted like old friends, to special restaurants like le Rapier and CanCan. Many dishes featured local dairy–cream and camembert–with beautiful vegetables perfectly prepared. And several times we made room for our favorite after-dinner treat, café gourmand.

Phil’s cafe gourmand one evening

Offered at most restaurants in France, a café gourmand is a cup of espresso with three or four tiny desserts. It’s an opportunity to taste several desserts instead of one full-sized one. I can’t handle caffeine in the evening, so usually Phil orders it and I get to taste!

Another cafe gourmand. Phil shared!

For our last day in Rouen, we decided to walk the city, strolling everywhere and marvelling at the beautiful buildings. We also visited the Jeanne d’Arc museum, where we learned much more about this fabled heroine. Housed in the Archbishop’s palace where her trial took place, the tour provides both an in-depth story of Joan of Arc’s life and a detailed tour of the medieval building. 

Chapel in the Archibishop’s palace

We climbed roughly one million stone steps, many in a scary spiral pattern with limited headroom. At the top of the building we were rewarded with an incredible view of the street below.

This view was worth the climb!

And then, after one more spectacular dinner and a final night in our lovely hotel, it was time to leave. We returned home feeling transformed by this experience, one we will never forget.

Normandy rainbow

I’ll leave you with the image below (with our guide Johann passing by), of the American Cemetery monument quote that I loved: “Think not only upon their passing. Remember the glory of their spirit.”

 

friendsgiving

Our first big party!

After returning from a fabulous trip to Normandy (I’ll write about that next month), our thoughts and energy turned to preparing for our first French Thanksgiving. Our favorite holiday, Thanksgiving is an opportunity for us to bring friends and/or family together to feast, tell stories, and have fun together while reveling in our gratitude for the life we have. Since we have no family here, this would be our first Friendsgiving in Europe.

The first order of business, after issuing invitations, was the turkey. While it’s easy to find thin slices, escalopes de dinde, here, I had no idea where to find whole turkeys. Fortunately, my friend Margi consulted the butcher at Les Halles, an indoor farmers’ market, who confirmed he could source them. So, armed wih my terrible French, I managed to order turkey from the lovely, non-English speaking butcher, who explained to me that turkeys in France were not at all like the huge, large-breasted turkeys in the U.S. For 20 people, he said, I would need three turkeys. I paid a deposit and left, only to later receive several calls from him, confirming our plans. The funniest one was when he said his farmer had told him that Thanksgiving was on November 27th, not November 24. I assured him it was the 24th, and that I’d collect the turkeys the day before.

Phil and I arrived on November 23, a bit nervous about whether the turkeys would indeed be waiting for us; my backup plan was to serve chicken. But M. le boucher, good to his word, had them ready–WITH HEADS INTACT! “Pas de tête pour moi,” I exclaimed, and he proceeded to remove the heads and cut the turkeys into pieces small enough for my oven. He even threw in a gift of sausage! He now has a customer for life.

 

Tables ready

With the turkey sorted, rolls made, dressing prepped, and green bean casserole (from scratch; no canned soup enters this food snob’s house!) ready for the oven, we proceeded to set up. Our furnished apartment has a table for six, and we brought our garden table for six inside. Our friend Jackie loaned us a third table with folding chairs, and our friend Jo loaned us a white tablecloth, so we were all set for our 18 guests.

Gorgeous flowers from Gwen and Tom

Special friends Gwen and Tom couldn’t come, as Gwen is down for the count with a badly broken ankle. But the day before the party, gorgeous flowers arrived from them! See what I mean when I mention our wonderful friends?

 

Amazing friends make for a great party!

The party was so much fun! Great food, wonderful company, and Phil’s famous pomegranate martinis made the day. We had guests from the U.S., France, Scotland, Lebanon, the Czech Republic, and Sweden, and both French and English were spoken. It was a Thanksgiving we’ll never forget.

The next day we stayed at home, putting the apartment back together, stuffing ourselves on leftovers, and resting. But on Saturday we were eager to get out. We attended our first session of Franglais, a language gathering where French speakers help others learn French, then enjoyed a stroll with friend Betsy. We decided to have a glass of wine, so I texted friends Anne and John, who met us at the bar near their home. After drinks we headed out to see the Coeur de Ville en Lumière. These events are held all over France, with gorgeous animated light shows projected onto monuments and buildings and set to music.

Christmas lights on Rue Foch

The light shows were incredible! The first one, Moustache le Chat, was at the Prefecture. We loved it! The second one was more serious, highlighting important women taking their rightful place among important men. My favorite moment was when Marie Curie broke the glass ceiling.

Shattering the glass ceiling

But my favorite was at the Promenade de Peyroux, where the water tower featured opera arias–and fireworks! It was a magical night.

The next day, Sunday, we decided to check out the Christmas market, which was unlike any holiday market we’d seen. Foie gras, vin chaud, gifts for everyone, and several Santa photo ops were on offer, along with food–oysters, aligot, sausages, crèpes, frites, sandwiches, and much more.

Hot wine. It’s better than it sounds.

There were probably about 75 or so vendors there, selling all kinds of wares–handmade jewelry, art, knives, puzzles, preserved foods, pottery, beauty products, cashmere shawls, and much more. We only bought one small item, but we’ll be back!

Foie Gras booth

But my favorite sight was the cotton candy booth. Apparently in France cotton candy is called “daddy’s beard.” Brilliant!

Barb de papa, aka cotton candy

And so we end this perfect Thanksgiving weekend feeling such gratitude for our lives in France. This beautiful city, Montpellier, is our home, and we are so fortunate to live here. Thanks for coming along for the ride!

 

 

 

Speaking of home. . .

The Roamers are making some big plans!

We love our beautiful furnished apartment–it’s spacious, comfortable, affordable, and comes with a rare large private garden. But after living here almost a year, we feel the urge to have something of our own, something permanent. And yes, Montpellier has become home for us. We plan to continue Roaming, traveling as much as possible, but after our year and a half of living full-time in Airbnbs, one month at a time, we value the notion of having a place of our own. So, we’ve decided to buy an apartment!

 

Our private garden, a rarity

There are two things, and only two things, we don’t like about our current furnished apartment. First, the location is far from everything we want to be close to. Want to go to a cafe for a coffee? Walk 25 minutes. How about a quick burger? 20 minutes. A trip to a restaurant will take 35 minutes walking or slightly less time via bus. Since we have no car (yet!) we depend on public transportation, which can be inconsistent.

Dining at home, because no restaurants!

The other thing we don’t like about our apartment is that it’s hidden behind THREE locked gates! The electric driveway gate gives access to the parking area. The next, a heavy iron gate, leads to a tiny courtyard with an unoccupied casita. And the third is the entry to our private garden. Very secure, but definitely a hassle for deliveries and hosting guests!

The last of three locked gates. Just try to get in!

Phil and I have had many conversations about whether to rent long-term or buy, and in the end we decided we really want to buy. Despite the damage to our funds courtesy of the stock market, the dollar is currently at equity with the euro, so it’s not a bad time to buy. In an ideal world, here’s what we’d like: three bedrooms, a large covered terrace, a high floor, little or no renovation needed, a walk-in shower, room for a washer and dryer, air conditioning, parking with electric car charging, and a quiet but close-to-everything location. Oh, and a great kitchen. The kitchen in our rental is perfect.

Wish we could replicate our kitchen!

We signed with Dennelle of Renestance, who represents buyers. In France there is no multilist, and agents often fiercely protect their listings–to the point that it can be difficult to even view an apartment! And agents work only on behalf of the sellers, so through Renestance we will have an expert in our corner. With Dennelle’s help we’ve now visited six apartments: one awful, one in dire need of renovation, and several nice ones.

A nice possibility, but no terrace

We narrowed our search to a specific Montpellier neighborhood called Antigone. Close to everything–shopping, restaurants, train station, and l’Ecusson (the old town)–this area was created in the 80’s and features neoclassical architecture. We love the leafy pedestrian lanes, multiple cafes, and fabulous outdoor and covered markets here!

The Sunday market at Antigone

You know how in the United States people who are selling their homes stage them? And clean them? Not in France! We’ve been surprised at how messy the homes can be. Honestly, who wants to see someone else’s detritus?

Messy laundry area in the bathroom of one of the apartments we visited

Yesterday we found what we think might be “the one.” On the 13th floor, with a beautiful view, it’s close to everything and has most of what we want. Stay tuned to find out what happens next!

home again, home again, jiggety jog

The Roamers happily head home

What a wonderful trip we had! We saw so many of our loved ones, had quality time with our darling granddaughter and her parents, and attended my twice-postponed 50th reunion, which celebrated “70 at 70” since we graduated in 1970 and are now 70 years old! After Dallas, we spent a couple of nights in Oklahoma City, where I mostly stayed in bed nursing a bad case of bronchitis while Phil saw several of his old friends. Then we met my brother and sis-in-law, Larry and Lea, for a lovely brunch in Tulsa, followed by introducing them to The Gathering Place. We spent that night with bestie Beth, and as a special bonus her sister Jenni joined us for dinner. It was a short visit, but any time we get together is a treasure. The next morning we drove to Stillwater and Oklahoma State University, where I spent four years. It was almost unrecognizable after all this time! After a quick lunch, we were off to Ponca City, my hometown.

We checked in to the Osage Casino, where the reunion was being held, before heading to dear friend and Wild Woman Linda’s childhood home for an apéro (but we don’t call it that in Oklahoma!). The time has come to sell the house, so this was a bittersweet gathering at a home that holds many fond memories.

Wild Women + Phil at Linda’s

After apéro, we all headed to Odie’s, an outdoor sports bar, for the welcome reception. It was SO COOL to see all those old friends! The best surprise for me was seeing my junior prom date Benjie and meeting his lovely wife; I hadn’t seen him since 1970! We had about 20% of our class in attendance, which I think is great for 52 years after graduation!

Natalie and Gracelyn, amazing reunion organizers

The next morning we enjoyed a drive down memory lane, visiting all four homes my parents had in Ponca City. I was happy to see that all of them have been well maintained. Then we visited Cann Gardens, a favorite of my dad’s, and we were blown away by the beauty. My dad was active in the community, a loyal Lions’ Club member, Cann Gardens supporter, and key participant in Ponca City’s holiday Festival of Angels.

Cann Gardens–gorgeous!

Next we had a reunion picnic at Lake Ponca, the site of many dates, escapades, water skiing adventures, and more. The weather was perfect, and the company even better!

Po-Hi Picnickers

Phil has known and loved my Wild Women (a group of high school friends who gather annually) for many years, so unlike many spouses, he enjoyed seeing friends at my reunion, especially Gracelyn’s husband Ralph.

Phil and Ralph at the picnic

That evening we strolled to the casino’s ballroom for the big event. I really didn’t want it to end, and despite my best efforts there were a few friends I missed chatting with.

Official reunion photo. I’m at the back.

The following morning we had one last visit at Linda’s house, for breakfast. Tina made eggs, Linda made her fabulous and famous paleo muffins, and we sadly said goodbye to the house and each other, with plans and promises for our next time together.

The gang at Linda’s house

Then it was off to Dallas for one last dinner with dear friends Marsha and Bob. The next day promised two flights and a train ride, then a taxi home! On our flight from JFK to CDG, a flilght attendant shared her favorite book list with several of us. I haven’t yet ordered any of the books, but they’re on my list.

How kind of her to share her book list!

And then. . .we were home! Admittedly we were a bit jet lagged, but it was so good to be back after five weeks. While we enjoyed our time in the USA, we have realized that we truly think of France as our home, despite our struggles to learn the language.

A favorite street in Montpellier, making a stand against breast cancer

I was still a bit under the weather, so to cheer myself up I went shopping–online at Mellie Earrings! And some of what I ordered was from the Etsy shop.

My shopping haul

We’ve enjoyed seeing our Montpellier friends again–our coffee group, the Quiz Night gang, and others. Recently friends Margi and Michael alerted us to a wonderful piano concert at an intimate cafe. It was such a fun event, and we’re hoping to attend the entire season.

Enjoying the piano conert–with cocktails!

And last Sunday we finally explored another market, in the Antigone neighborhood. It was great–lots of vendors with new things to try. We enjoyed aligot, a rich dish made with potatoes, cheese, and cream, dipped to order out of a huge vat. And I was fascinated by all the varieties of mushrooms, although sadly there were no morels. But we bought a giant cèpe that I’m going to stuff tonight for dinner. And we discovered a delicious new mushroom, the Lactaire delicieux, pictured below. The green part is not mold, but is caused by being touched. I sauteed them in olive oil with herbes de provence and flaky salt, and they were indeed delicieux!

Delicious mushrooms

And so, we are home again. We feel deep gratitude for our fabulous trip, and even more for being able to come home to such a wonderland. Montpellier is, for us, home indeed.

Montpellier’s Arc de Triomphe in autumn

Cruisin’ continued

A 15-day cruise requires two blog posts.

After two sea days we arrived in Ponta Delgada, the capital of Portugal’s Azores archipelago. The beauty of this place is astonishing. We had booked a half-day bus tour and were eager to get started. Not as eager as several adult”toddlers” on the bus, however, who shouted at the guide to leave the stragglers. Fortunately, our guide ignored them and waited for the last passengers to board. Off we went!

First views from the bus

We were astonished at the variety and beauty of the plants on the island. Our guide explained that, in addition to native plants, over 700 plants from all over the world were introduced and have thrived in the mild climate and rich soil. We saw hydrangea hedges, wild orchids, laurel, a huge variety of trees, and much more.

This beautiful ginger is considered a weed.

Our first stop was a tiny village with homes, a few shops, and a lovely little chapel. We were allotted time to stroll around and take pictures. Our first stop was the chapel, located at the end of a plane tree and hydrangea-lined path.

Path to the chapel

Next to the chapel was a small cemetery with a few monuments. The weather was cloudy and few people were out, but we thought the village was lovely.

Chapel interior

Phil is more polite than I am, and he is hesitant to invade others’ space. Having no such compunctions, I strolled between two houses into a backyard/pasture area to see the view.

Trespasser view!

Next we drove through a crater village (yep, a village built in an active volcano crater!) to two crater lakes. Known as the Green Lake and the Blue Lake, they looked the same on our visit (cloudy), but normally one looks green because of algae, and the other reflects the blue sky.

Close-up of the Green Lake

These views were amazing, but there was more to come. Our bus driver was a genius, and we’ll never know how he navigated crowded, winding one-lane roads to take us up the mountain. And then he found a place to park the bus while we explored! The views left us speechless, especially looking down at the crater lakes we’d left an hour earlier.

Looking down at the crater lakes

The trip back down the mountain was beaufiful. The hydrangeas amazed me, but our guide said they were well past their prime. 

Amazing hydrangeas

The last stop on our tour was at a hotel for a wine and cheese tasting. The Azores are known for their cheeses, but we didn’t detect much variety. They were all semi-soft and mild in flavor–but delicious. The local wines, not so much….

Wine and cheese of the Azores

We had plenty of time left to explore the city. There’s an Azorean dish I wanted to try, called cozido das Fumas, but no local restaurants were serving it. So instead we walked, browsed in local shops, and got plenty of steps!

Even the sidewalks are beautiful!

Three Arches gates of Ponta Delgada

We wandered aimlessly around the old city, stopping when things interested us. What interested us, you ask? People preparing for a concert at the Three Arches. Two police officers arguing vociferously with the recipient of an unwanted parking ticket (we tired of watching after several minutes, but the shouting continued). Local shops that didn’t seem touristy. 

Beautiful church

Tired, achy, and, to be completely honest, in need of a cocktail, we headed back to the ship. We went up to the top deck for refreshments and a last look at the beautiful Azores, knowing we would not touch land again for four days.

Last look at the Azores

Now it was time to learn how to be at sea. The first day I was a bit tetchy, but soon I relaxed into the rhythm and found the days were flying by. We didn’t see any other cruise ships, but we did pass a couple of tankers.

Two ships passing in the daytime

We heard a couple of people (cranky adult toddlers, we called them) complain about the food, but Phil and I thought it was excellent. We quickly became accustomed to crisp white linen tablecloths, fresh flowers, multiple courses, and superior service three times a day.

Beautiful and delicious appetizer

We especially enjoyed lounging (and sometimes lunching) on an upper deck by the pools. With several cafes and bars, ping pong, first-run movies, and more on offer, we mostly just read or worked on our French.

Evening on the upper deck

We knew we’d diverted south a bit to avoid storms, but one morning the Commodore announced that we’d veered far off our course to avoid not one, but two hurricanes. Consequently, we would not be making our planned stop in Boston, where we’d planned to spend the day with dear friend Sandy. Instead we’d head straight to New York, arriving a day early. This meant six sea days instead of four. We were disappointed, but frequent travel has taught us to adapt to the unforeseen, so we happily booked a Brooklyn food and culture tour for our extra NYC day. We rose before dawn to watch our approach to New York.

Statue of Liberty at dawn

Once off the ship and through customs, we took the ferry and a taxi to the meeting point for our tour. And what a tour it was! First stop was The Meatball Shop, where the sauce is so delicious it’s now bottled and sold at Whole Foods. 

This sign at The Meatball Shop cracked me up.

From there we went next door to a Mediterranean place, where we enjoyed the best falafel I’ve ever had. It’s a tiny, family-owned place that does a brisk business. I can’t remember the name, but if you can find it, go! Other amazing stops included a Polish restaurant where we sampled pierogis and kielbasa, Jacques Torres Chocolate in DUMBO (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass), a delicous coal-fired oven pizza, and the best Italian bakery I’ve experienced–and I used to frequent Mike’s in Boston’s North End!

Roamers near the bridge

The Italian bakery, Monteleone Pasticceria, was a feast for the eyes, with mouthwatering pastries, gorgeous marzipan, and more. Our group sampled mini cannolis, which were scrumptious.

Gorgeous pastries

A little something for later. . .

We returned to the ship for our final night, slept like babies, and the next morning bade farewell as we moved to our New York hotel for a few days. We didn’t find affordable tickets for any shows, but we had a wonderful time. Our transplanted New York friends Margi and Michael had made restaurant recommendations, which we quickly booked. We enjoyed Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster Harlem (we’re big Samuelsson fans and had eaten at his JFK branch before), but our favorite was Tonchin, where we had a fabulous Japanese dinner complete with craft cocktails.

Our friend Trish, who visited us in Montpellier last summer, had invited us to brunch at Roger, a beautiful upscale restaurant atop the Museum of Arts and Design at Columbus Circle. We had a delicious brunch (Phil said his eggs Benedict was the best of his life!) while catching up with Trish, watching the Beautiful People, and enjoying the spectacular view.

Brunch view

After brunch, the three of us headed to the High Line, an elevated vertical park on a former railway line. There is something interesting to see everywhere: plants, city views, sculpture, and on the day we visited, a choir singing medieval songs. The park ends in Chelsea, near the market and the Whitney Museum of American Art, which we visited the next day.

Fascinating sculpture on the High Line

This little girl loved the free concert!

On the day we walked over 30,000 steps, I was too tired to move, so we went across the street from our hotel to an early dinner at the Lexington Brass. There I was revived by a cocktail (of course), followed by one of the best salads I’ve ever eaten. This coconut kale salad featured quinoa, cherry tomatoes, shredded chicken, roasted sweet potato, and avocado, with a delicious shallot vinaigrette. I’m definitely going to copy it!

Delicous and beautiful!

We returned to the hotel to find it full of security people. We hadn’t realized the United Nations General Assembly was starting the next day! But the next morning, with the help of a porter, we snagged a taxi and headed to the airport. We flew to Austin to spend several days visiting our granddaughter (and her parents!), and before leaving for Dallas we grabbed a quick breakfast with friends Danny and Lynn. Dallas was wonderful, with dinners with dear friends Joni, Scott, Cara, Steve, Michael, Cherie, Gary, Tom, and Nancy, as well as a special birthday for Phil. Then it was on to Oklahoma for visits with family and friends–and my high school reunion! We’ll fly home in early October, with wonderful memories of a vacation we’d never dreamed of. We are the Lucky Shroyers!

Phil’s special birthday dessert–at a speakeasy!

Cruisin’

The Roamers make the crossing

When we read in Lynn Martin’s blog and book about repositioning cruises, we were intrigued. Two weeks of luxury for about what a flight would cost? Count us in! We had planned to visit the U.S. to see our granddaughter around her first birthday, as well as to attend my twice-postponed 50th high school reunion, so we booked a 15-day Princess repositioning cruise from Southampton to New York. We traveled to Southampton by train, arriving the evening before departure. It was a relaxed way to travel, and the Eurostar even served a lovely lunch–with wine!

The Roamers on the Eurostar

We had time the next morning to explore Southampton, a port city with a fascinating history. Titanic references are ubiquitous!

The port’s history, in tiles.

We walked to the old town and stood (just for a minute; it’s creepy!) in a murder hole. At the walls of the old city, there’s a place where attackers could enter. The defenders then closed both doors and proceeded to shoot arrows or pour scalding water on the enemy until all were dead. 

Entering the murder hole

After our walk and breakfast at the hotel, it was time to board the ship! The boarding process was seamless, and soon we were unpacking in our luxurious stateroom.

The ship’s three-level plaza (with plenty of bars!)

We had chosen an inside stateroom near the center of the ship for two reasons: it’s cheaper, and it’s more stable. We didn’t know whether we’d experience any seasickness (we didn’t) so wanted to be safe. 

Our stateroom (after the steward put the twin beds together for us)

After heading to the pool deck to watch our departure, we explored the ship and settled down in one of the many bars for a pre-dinner cocktail. We couldn’t believe how beautiful, luxurious, and comfortable the ship was! The Enchanted Princess can accommodate 3660 guests, but our cruise had only about 2300, so there was a crew member for every two guests. The service was exceptional, the food was excellent, and we couldn’t have enjoyed it more.

On the first full day at sea, the Commodore announced a medical emergency. The patient, who we later heard was 90 years old, was evacuated at sea by helicopter!

Helicopter evacuation

That excitement over, we proceeded to our first port of call: Bergen, Norway. What a beautiful city!

Approaching Bergen in style

Once off the ship, we walked into town and stopped at the fish market for lunch. The weather was lovely–cool, but no need for a jacket! After lunch we headed to the funicular for a ride up the mountainside.

Bergen from the top

There were goats up there! And ice cream, and picnic tables, and a cafe. We spent about an hour enjoying the view and chatting with a couple from the UK.

Yo, Goats!

We walked through the historical “wooden houses” district and wandered through several shops before heading back to the ship. The next day we were at sea, enjoying all the ship offered. There was plenty to do–dancing lessons, crafts, enrichment presentations, music, pools and hot tubs, and more. 

Lunch with a view

Early the next morning we arrived in Belfast! We’d never been to Northern Ireland and were eager to explore. We’d booked a bus tour that gave us a great overview of the city, its history, and the sights. Most compelling were the murals around town commemorating the Troubles.

 

Bobby Sands tribute

We learned abou the history leading to the Troubles. Today Belfast is thriving once again, and we were told that the younger generations have helped the country move past its violent history.

More history of the Troubles

I would have liked to see more of the murals and learn more about the city’s history, but time was limited. We wanted to try a pub, and I spotted a beautiful one. 

Beautiful old Belfast pub

They were fully booked so we couldn’t eat there, but I did visit the ladies’ room. Even the stalls were decorated!

Beautiful tilework in the pub ladies’ room stall

We also visited the Titanic museum (the Titanic was built and launched in Belfast). We learned about the construction of the ship, but I was most interested in people’s stories. One of the most fascinating things was learning about the differences among first class, second class, and steerage. Steerage class was actually nicer than I’d envisioned, but of course first class was first class.

Menu for the last first-class luncheon on the Titanic

That evening we were back on the ship, setting sail for Cork, our next stop. Ireland was another first for us, and we were excited to see this gorgeous area, where we had booked an all-day bus tour with a long stop at Blarney Castle. The ocean that evening was a bit rough, but we had no problem with seasickness.

A bit of a storm

The next morning we were on the bus and heading to Blarney Castle. What a beautiful place! Everything likes to grow there. The bus parked and we were on our own to explore the castle and grounds. We made the long climb up the narrowest of spiral stone staircases to the top of the castle (definitely not for the claustrophobic!), but we declined the opportunity to kiss the Blarney stone.

First view of Blarney Castle

Castle grounds

The grounds were beautiful, full of gardens–including a poisonous garden! It rained most of the day, but we didn’t mind. We enjoyed a snack in one of the old horse stalls and visited a wonderful mill shop. Then we were off to explore beautiful Cork County. On our last stop of the day, in a quaint fishing village, we had a pub meal of fish and chips.

Fish and chips in County Cork

I guess Guinness is the drink in Cork!

Next, we had a couple of sea days. We discovered our favorite bar on the ship, the Good Spirits, where each afternoon the bartender would do a show featuring creative cocktails. My favorite was the Butterfly: 1.5 oz gin, .25 oz Cointreau, .75 oz simple syrup, 1.5 oz butterfly tea, and .75 oz lemon juice. When the tea is added, it turns purple!

Butterfly recipe on the bar’s screen

We developed a rhythm for our sea days. We’d sit with our coffee (latte for Phil, cappucino for me), then head to one of the restaurants for breakfast. Then I’d take a walk and Phil would go to the gym, then we’d head back to the room for a shower, and on to lunch. In the afternoons we’d work on our French, watch a movie, hang out on a pool lounge, or take a nap. Soon it was time to freshen up for the evening, which consisted of cocktails, dinner, and a fabulous show. The production shows were superb!

Sunset

There’s so much more to share, but that will have to wait for the next post. I have to be ready when my granddaughter wakes up from her nap!

Art in Aix

The Roamers pause their time-out for a trip to Aix-en-Provence

Welp, we couldn’t quite make it a whole month without entertaining or travel! On Friday we celebrated the break in the canicules (heat waves) with petanque and dinner in our garden. Friends Ann-lii, Frederick, Jo, and Dennis joined us for a wonderful evening.

Petanque without sweating!

The next morning we caught a train for Aix-en-Provence, a wonderful city I’d first discovered reading MFK Fisher (my favorite writer), which we’d visited on our first trip to France in 1993. It’s changed a bit since then (so have we!), and we couldn’t wait to explore. Our first stop after checking in to our hotel was, of course, lunch, followed by a visit to the Hotel de Caumont, a renowned art museum.

Art exhibit in our hotel

Hotel de Caumont

The catalyst for our trip was a Raoul Dufy painting I saw on Facebook. Unfamiliar with his work, I did a little research and found that there was a rare exhibition of his work in Aix, which is about three hours away by train. Off we went!

The painting that inspired our trip

Located in an aristocratic mansion that is an art exhibit in itself, the Hotel de Caumont displayed room upon room of Dufy paintings. We spent well over two hours there.

Several of my favorites from the Dufy exhibit

While at the Caumont we were able to see a couple of rooms that have been restored to their original splendor. The bedroom below overlooks the courtyard garden.

Bedroom

Courtyard garden

We strolled back to the hotel via the famous Cours Mirabeau, a wide thoroughfare designed in the 17th century. It’s a thriving, plane-tree-lined street offering plenty of cafes, bars, and shops.

Fountain at the Cours Mirabeau

Then it was back to the hotel for a rest before dinner. Phil decided to enjoy an adult beverage, which was pricey (17 euros!) but delicious. Yes, he gave me a sip.

17 euro cocktail!

For dinner, we chose a restaurant mentioned in the Michelin guide, Les Inseparables. Nestled in a lovely courtyard surrounded by trees, we enjoyed the degustation menu and an excellent bottle of wine. As in virtually ever restaurant in France, American music was playing.

 

Lobster tartare

My favorite: interpretation of tarte citron

The next morning we set out in search of coffee on the Cours Mirabeau. First we stopped to greet the sculpture of Cezanne, which had unfortunately been defaced with paint.

Cezanne

As we paused to take a picture, we heard music, then someone on a loudspeaker. Naturally, we (I) had to investigate. Turns out it was a ceremony honoring the 78th anniversary of La Liberation. The whole thing was very moving. After the speech (I couldn’t understand it well, but what I could get was wonderful) and the laying of flowers at the memorial, we heard the Chant des Partisans., the haunting hymn of the Resistance, followed by a moment of silence. Then we were astonished to hear the U.S. National Anthem, honoring our country’s part in liberating France. Finally, La Marseillaise was played. We were not the only bystanders wiping tears away.

Tribute of flowers

The flowers were laid at the monument des morts, which is inscribed “Aix-en-Provence a ses enfants morts pour La Patrie“–“Aix-en-Provence for its children who died for the country.” The ceremony was followed by a parade.

Tank in the parade

After the parade and lunch, we headed to another museum, the Musée Granet. We wanted to see some of the work of native son Paul Cezanne, and to learn more about his role in the evolution from impressionism to cubism.

Some of Cezanne’s works

Our admission to the Musée Granet included a ticket to their modern art museum, La Chapelle des Pénitants Blancs, “the chapel of the white penitants.” This beautiful 17th century building houses the personal collection of Swiss painter Jean Planque, who befriended many of the artists whose work he acquired. He wasn’t wealthy, but he had a keen eye for discovering great painters before they became known. We saw amazing works by Picasso, Braques, Degas, Klee, and Cezanne, as well as Planque’s own work.

A Bonnard that I loved

I don’t remember ever seeing so many Picasso paintings in one place before–and one of them was inscribed to Planque.

This beautiful painting was signed to Planque by Picasso, his close friend.

 

The three-story former chapel that housed these paintings was spectacular. The renovation retained the beautiful arched ceilings and other features but created a perfect neutral setting for these modern paintings.

View from the second of three floors in the museum

Beautiful work by Claude Garache

En route to our last museum stop, Gallifet, we encountered a window box cat, whom I befriended. It was both decorative and ready for petting!

Mon ami, le chat

On an earlier stroll we had noticed a tiny art gallery attached to a courtyard restaurant. It was closed, but we decided to return to check it out. I was fascinated by the art, which appeared to be focused on kitchens and interiors. So on Sunday after lunch we returned. The scene made us wish we’d come for lunch!

The Gallifet courtyard restaurant

The exhibit was tiny but beautiful. In the middle of the room was a table draped with a dyed and embroidered cloth, displaying ceramics, and the walls were covered with small paintings of interiors. 

I loved this table!

Later I learned that this wasn’t even the exhibit of the museum! I guess it was just an adjunct to the restaurant. Next time we’ll have to see the entire thing–and dine there!

One of the delightful interior paintings

On our way back to the hotel, we ran into Alfred Hitchcock at a cinema. Orson Welles was on the other side of the door, but he did not allow photographs.

Alfred Hitchcock holding up the wall at the cinema

We also spotted two chefs standing at their windows

Our last sight on the way back was the memorial to the massacred Armenians. I didn’t even know about this before seeing this amazing monument.

Translation: “To the Two Million Armenians Massacred by the Turks during the first genocide of the 20th century, 1894-1922”

And then it was time to go home. We were amazed by how much we had been able to pack into just over 24 hours, but there is so much more to see in Aix-en-Provence. We’ll definitely be back!

 

Quiet.

The Roamers slow down

Several people have commented recently that they don’t know how we have the energy to do so much–traveling, hosting, exploring, studying French, and generally staying so very busy. Well, we finally realized that it was time to slow down a bit! After our last house guests left, we decided to take the month of August as a break, and so far we’ve done just that!

It’s been very quiet chez Shroyer, partly because of our resolve to slow down and partly because of the canicule, aka HEAT WAVE. It’s been in the high 90s and low 100s daily for several weeks. Without a car, we depend on our feet and public transportation, and the latter has been quite unreliable due to summer construction/expansion projects. I’ve grown tired of taking three showers a day, so we’ve stayed inside much more than usual.

As I mentioned in the last post, we attended a soirée at the end of July, in the courtyard of a Lebanese restaurant. It was HOT but we had a great evening. We are so grateful for our circle of friends in Montpellier!

Hot but fun evening with (mostly) Americans in Montpellier

About all that walking: we ordered an electric car, a Hyundai Kona, which was supposed to be delivered in July. In July it was delayed until August, and now it’s delayed until mid-September. We’ll be out of the country in September, so the earliest we can get it now will be October. But we’re really looking forward to (a) having a car again, and (b) learning how to be electric car people.

The car we ordered

I’ve been reading a lot, mostly fluff/ fun/forgettable novels, but this week I had a special treat: I read the debut mystery novel by my dear friend and Wild Woman Susan Steiner. Susan was one of my best friends in high school, and I’ve always admired her quirky creativity, sense of humor, and comfort in her own skin. Her novel, Murder by Manuscript, is fascinating–not only is it a great read, but the principal characters are based on her grandchildren as she imagines them as adults. What a concept!

Susan’s book: highly recommended!

Another thing I’ve done during this time-out is expand my earring collection. You may recall that our daughter is a jewelry designer whose company is called Mellie Earrings. I spent two days with her in July, “helping”at the fabulous outdoor market in Stockholm, and I bought a few items there. But when I saw she was having a “flash” sale, I couldn’t resist a bit more shopping. I ordered the Mystery Box, which consists of three pairs of earrings that Mellie intuitively selects. I think she nailed it!

My Mellie Earrings Mystery Box!

In addition to the market and her website, she also has an Etsy shop. Now I have my eye on these beautiful Gaia earrings!

And that’s about it for August-to-date. We’re about to head out for our weekly coffee meetup with fellow English speakers. Several of us usually stay until lunchtime and then walk to an outdoor cafe for lunch, after which I’ll walk over to my French class. We are definitely living the sweet life in France!

The Roamers: not roaming this month.

Bye-bye, July

Time speeds up for the Roamers

After returning from our Stockholm trip and hosting a little dinner party, we deliberately slowed things down a bit. We were fatigued from so much travel, so much company! When I finally got a bit stir-crazy, we decided to visit the Montpellier aquarium, Planet Ocean Montpellier. It was remarkable!

Tiny sea creatures greeted us

The exhibits were well done and varied. We didn’t take time to read all the information, as the place was crowded with tons of families and kids. One tiny girl rushed over and hugged my legs–but when she looked up and saw I wasn’t her mommy, she was horrified! Her mom giggled with me as she comforted her disconcerted daughter.

One of the permanent residents

When our son Grayson was little, he was obsessed with penguins. He had a stuffed penguin whose beak he’d chewed to bits, and for a long time we gifted him with penguins of all sorts (except live penguines. We didn’t give him any of those). We still think of him every time we see a penguin, so at the aquarium he was with us in spirit!

Penguins! Lots of them! A bit stinky!

We enjoyed the aquarium and recommend a visit there. As a bonus, they have a couple of funhouse mirrors, probably designed to entertain kiddos. We loved the one that made us look thin!

The only way we’ll look skinny!

One of our favorite things to do on Sundays is visit the brocante (flea market) at the Promenade de Peyrou. I never tire of seeing the interesting, odd things people are selling there. 

This hat is for sale!

Sometimes bizarre, sometimes charming, often compelling, the wares of the vendors at the brocante vary from china/crystal/silver to vintage clothing, from original artwork to furniture, from toys to treasures. We’ve made a few purchases but mostly we just enjoy browsing and people-watching.

Delightful doll clothes

After our self-imposed break from living at breakneck speed, we greeted house guests Gayla and Trish, college friends of Phil’s. He and Gayla, an amazing artist, worked together and have stayed close, but he hadn’t seen Trish, who lives in New Jersey, in years, and I’d never even met her.

Gayla showing her work at a shop in Oklahoma

They arrived after spending a few days in Paris, and we were eager to show them our beautiful city.

Trish, Gayla, and Phil, waiting for le bus

The evening they arrived, we joined other friends for an organ concert at the Cathédral Saint-Pierre de Montpellier, which has the most beautiful organ I’ve ever seen. Afterwards, our group of eight strolled to la Coquille for a lovely outdoor dinner. 

Light show at the organ concert, courtesy of the stained glass windows

It was a great first night. The next morning we visited the Les Arceaux marché, a wonderful organic outdoor market where we stocked up on fresh fruits and vegetables.

Olives at the marché

Phil schlepped our purchases home while I took Gayla and Trish to see the Arc de Triomphe and the statue of Louis XIV on his horse at the nearby Promenade de Peyrou. 

 

A friendly tree on our path; wonder who lives in there?

Gayla, who had felt tired all morning (we all assumed it was the pace of travel), ran out of steam, so we headed home to rest. Unfortunately, she tested positive for Covid. We all worked to make the best of the situation, with Gayla isolating in the guest room, Trish “sleeping”on the living room sofa, and all of us staying in for the required three days until we could test. After testing negative, Trish, Phil, and I were able to get out (wearing masks inside). We took Trish to the brocante, where she bought gifts (including a gorgeous set of champagne flutes for us!).

Brocante vendors enjoying an elegant lunch

Trish trained as an artist and has resumed her creative work, working in pastels. She was excited to visit the Jardin des Plantes, a botanical garden founded in 1593. It’s a beautiful, peaceful place where she spent a day sketching.

Water lilies at Jardin des Plantes

On the last day of their visit, with Gayla cleared to get out, I took Trish and Gayla on a walking tour of the beautiful medieval pedestrian streets of Montpellier. We poked into shops where they bought souvenirs and gifts before meeting Phil at le Kiosk Fabre, the outdoor cafe near the famed Musée Fabre. After lunch I headed home for a video call with friend and former colleague Sally, while Phil took our guests to the Fabre, which they both loved. That evening, their last night with us, we headed back into lÉcusson for drinks and dinner at our favorite bar, Smash Bar. On the way, of course we had to peek into the shop windows

Is this the bed from “The Princess and the Pea”?

We had a delightful dinner outside, with the usual exceptional hosting from the family who run Smash Bar. After dinner we strolled around the neighborhood before heading home.

Happy, healthy diners!

The next morning we said goodbye to our friends and settled in to relax for the weekend. I’ll be honest: I didn’t even get out of my pajamas until Saturday, when it was time to head to our second monthly dinner soirée. Facebook group Americans in Montpellier organizes it, with sponsorship from Renestance, the company that helped–and continues to help–us move to France. I’m a guest blogger for Renestance, and you can see all of their blogs, including mine, here. 

The second lovely dinner soirëe

So that’s a wrap for July! After so much travel, house guests, and HEAT, we’re looking forward to a quiet August before we head to the U.S. in September. Time to get back into a daily routine!

 

 

 

 

Family

Lucky Roamers!

We are so grateful for our wonderful family–our own family, our “family by choice,” lovely in-laws, and our ever-widening social circle. These connections are the best thing in our lives, and our new friends in France made us feel at home almost immediately. 

 

New friends at a recent outdoor dinner event

In late June Nancy and Tom spent a few days with us. They’re our son-in-law’s parents, so that makes us–family! We’ve often said that we’d be friends with them even if we weren’t related; how lucky is that?!

Nancy and Tom at an outdoor cafe before our museum visit

We set a nice pace for their visit: not too much walking (it was HOT!), a moderate amount of sightseeing, and plenty of time to catch up at home over cocktails and dinner. Oh, and petanque in our garden!

Nancy was the petanque champion

We enjoyed roaming the Montpellier streets, visiting the Musee Fabre, and seeing a wonderful photographic exhibit of Peter Lindbergh’s work (he’s the fashion photographer discovered by Anna Wintour who pioneered photos featuring the models, not just the clothes). The morning after Tom and Nancy left, it was our turn to travel: to Stockholm! Our daughter and her husband live there, and we hadn’t seen them since October. Our flight was delayed in Montpellier, but we still had plenty of time at the airport in Paris to grab a bite and listen to a random piano concert.

This traveler entertained us

We finally arrived in Stockholm, and our kids joined us at the hotel for a late dinner. By the way, I highly recommend the Marriott in Stockholm! Lovely room, bountiful breakfast buffet included, and a great location close to parks and public transportation. 

Our wonderful kids

The next morning I was treated to something I’d been looking forward to for months: spending the day with Amelia at the market! She is a jewelry designer, and one of her outlets is an outdoor market that runs from late spring through early fall. It was wonderful to hang out with her at her booth, enjoy the gorgeous weather, try out the food trucks, meet some of her friends, and watch her in action! I may or may not have done a bit of shopping. . .

There was a bit less merchandise after my shopping spree

We were so excited to see the kids’ apartment, which they bought over two years ago, in the “before times.” It’s on the top floor of the building, in a lush residential area, and they have put their stamp on it–great wall colors, plenty of memorabilia, and their unique, artsy vibe. We loved it!

Indian takeout at the kids’ apartment

There was a special reason for the timing of our visit: our daughter’s July 4 birthday! She laid out how she would like to spend it, and that’s exactly what we did: brunch by Nic, featuring eggs benedict and his home-made from scratch English muffins, along with mimosas by Phil. Then presents, followed by naps and video games. Next up was a video visit with son Grayson and his daughter, aka the cutest baby in the world. Soon it was time to start making dinner (me) and birthday cupcakes (Nic). Phil served up a signature cocktail to sustain our labors. I made twice-baked potatoes and Caesar salad, and Nic made chocolate cupcakes with rose hip buttercream frosting. It was such fun to cook together, and our dinner was just what Amelia wanted! We had so much fun I forgot to take any pictures.

After the market on Saturday and Sunday and our birthday celebration on Monday, our little group was free to explore. We used public transportation, which usually offered a weird, interesting, or artistic experience. The signs above the escalators cracked me up: I think the one on the right says “UP” and the one on the left says “NOT UP.”

Up and Not Up

We had visited the kids in Stockholm once before, so on this trip we didn’t do a lot of touristy things. Walking the streets, I was reminded how beautiful this city is. Flowers were everywhere, the buildings were interesting, and the people-watching was superb.

Lots of flowers on the sidewalks

One day we decided to visit a couple of museums. Most of Stockholm’s museums are clustered in one neighborhood, near the water, in a beautiful park-like area. We had visited one or two of them on our last trip, so this time we did a couple of new ones

A historic building in the museum district

We decided to hit the ABBA museum first. Photos weren’t allowed, so you’ll have to trust that it was a cool experience. My favorite thing, at the end of the tour, was the collection of costumes. Simply amazing to see them close up! And, of course, the music. By the time we finished we were hungry, and some of us, who will not be named, were beginning to feel a bit hangry. After a couple of misses (“you can only eat here if you have a museum ticket” and “we’re closed”), we finally found an open restaurant by the boats, where we enjoyed adult beverages and a tapas lunch.

Hanger averted

After lunch we visited the spirits museum. It was fascinating to learn about the history and production of spirits in Sweden. And yes, they did offer a tasting after the tour.

Part of the special exhibition on gin

We spent more time touring around, sampling Swedish foods (meatballs! potatoes! herring!), and simply enjoying our time together. I can’t wait to go back and see more.

The opera house, where we saw a piano recital on our previous visit

On our last evening, we strolled through a beautiful pedestrian neighborhood, looking at all the menus before deciding on a restaurant for dinner. We had a wonderful time–oysters, fois gras, excellent wines, and more!

The guys at dinner

It was a perfect evening, and we headed back to the hotel for our last night. The kids joined us for breakfast the next morning and saw us off to the airport. I’ll admit to being very sad to leave–but we’ll see them again soon, no later than October.

Mommy and Daughter

We made it home (our luggage decided to extent the trip by an extra day!), and I recovered from my sadness in time to enjoy our weekly coffee date with other English speakers, followed by lunch and my French class. It was nice to settle back into our routine after so much travel. And we closed out the week with a little dinner party! Our friend Gwen was back on her feet after struggling with knee problems, so we had to celebrate!

Dinner party

We are so very fortunate to have all these wonderful people–family and friends–in our lives! We are two lucky Roamers, for sure.